Thoughts on Punishment as Related to Scholarly Study

The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers uses the least intrusive and minimally aversive procedure to succeed in training or changing behavior. It is called LIMA, or "Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive."

Why not, as a body of leaders in behavior, instead of striving for the least intrusive, minimally aversive behavior intervention, why not strive for the most reinforcing, optimally appetitive behavior intervention? 

I realize the ask is big. We must rely on available education, intelligence, and hopefully our desire for the best possible relationship with our dogs.

I want to be honest about the fact that I use punishment and know what I am doing, rather than just hoping I always use reinforcement. I also want to recognize when I am using an aversive, not just with dogs but with human students and colleagues, as I am about to do here by voicing my disapproval (a positive punishment [P+] reprimand) of the target behavior defined as "using fear or pain."

Ironic, because I am engaging in the P+ of trying to reduce the frequency of using P+ by voicing my disapproval of P+. I am intentionally trying to be self-aware, civil, thoughtful, and scholarly in tone as I do so.

In general I agree with Dr. Ian Dunbar's teachings, especially that rewards are always preferred and appropriate behavior must always be taught to the dog and available to produce to avoid punishment. Dr. Ian Dunbar says repeating punishment of any kind beyond three repetitions is ABUSE. This seems a very good principle.

In general I disagree with Steve White's "rules" because it's unfair to do something (especially punishment) the dog does not expect. I will also thoughtfully note the multiple errors in spelling ("loosing" in rule three) and grammar (ending a sentence in a preposition in rule four) which do not inspire scholarly confidence.

We learn by scholarly study and in real-life practice, that for punishment to even be effective, it must be immediate and certain. Unless one is 100% able to deliver the punishment 100% of the time the target behavior occurs, then don't bother. Otherwise it becomes an intermittent reinforcer, thus strengthening the very behavior we wish to diminish!

Considered in light of scholarly study, this makes me re-examine my use of punishment. If indeed I cannot follow through with delivering the punishment every single time and not repeating beyond three repetitions, then I must strongly consider stopping the use of that particular punishment, ever. No matter how un-painful or fear-free I consider it to be.

See Dr. Ian Dunbar's eighth rule of punishment and his idea that punishment beyond three repetitions is abuse. If an educated, respected, well-known, and scientifically sound expert scholar says it's abuse, it probably is.

I strive to only use punishment that is not painful and not scary but is effective. However unless I can honestly apply it 100% of the time, and repeat it less than three times, I will consider not using punishment for that behavior.

Examples of my use of punishment and aversives follow:

Positive punishment: physically preventing my dog from performing a behavior that will hurt him by physically grabbing him (providing a consequence [a physical grab] that decreases the frequency of the target behavior [hurting himself, say getting run over by a tractor if he cannot hear me]). P+ is to be used only at the utmost end of need.

Negative punishment: crossing my arms and looking up if a dog tries to jump up on me when the dog's guardian does not want the dog to jump up on people (removing the reinforcer [my attention] to reduce the frequency of the behavior [jumping up]).

Negative reinforcement: walking away from my dog if he gets excited while in the crate while I approach to release him from the crate (providing aversive consequences [I walk away, something my dog will work to avoid] to maintain or increase the behavior [Gunner stays quietly lying down in his crate until released]).

Positive reinforcement: where I choose to spend most of my efforts.

For my part, I do not want to incur the heavy responsibility, as Sue Alexander rightly puts it in her Applied Behavior Analysis course, of using pain to teach a dog. 

I prefer to rely on the four quadrants of reinforcement and punishment (without fear or pain), as well as my intelligence, experience, and if necessary consulting a colleague whose opinion matters, to develop a plan to attain the behavior I desire that's in the best interest of the dog and our relationship.

If we find ourselves in a situation where we are considering using fear or pain, we must re-examine what we know, including what is known by respected and scientifically sound experts. When necessary, reach out to a colleague or expert peer for the appropriate help. 

Yes, even for fence jumping, life-saving off-leash recall, harming chickens, and the like. Modern science supports positive reinforcement and optimally appetitive behavior intervention.

Given enough thought, effort, and the right brain power, there is almost always a better alternative than using fear or pain.

Our foster dog Meggie, who in a past life endured too much fear and pain. Now she is benefitting from a positive reinforcement education.

Counterconditioning: A Crash Course

Counterconditioning by Playing

the Look At That Game 

Keep your dog below threshold, still showing quiet and calm behavior, while you teach your dog to look at the exciting or fearful stimulus, then repeatedly reward them for remaining calm while just in the presence of the trigger.

Have lots of high-value rewards your dog loves, like pea-sized bits of hot dog or chicken. Be sure you are at a distance and time where you control how close or far your dog is from the trigger. 

Always keep your dog under threshold (showing quiet and calm behavior), so they notice the trigger without going over threshold. Sometimes this means starting at a very far distance from the trigger. 

If your dog isn't able to see the trigger at any distance without going over threshold, that's ok. Practice first at home with a neutral target (anything that they do not react to) so that they learn the game before being in the presence of the trigger. 

As soon as your dog glances at the trigger, click or say "Yes!" while your dog looks at the trigger to mark that behavior and give them a delicious treat. After your dog progresses to the point they are offering a glance toward the trigger, add the verbal cue "Look!" 

Your dog quickly starts to look at the scary or stimulating trigger when you give the "Look!" cue and then eagerly turns to you in anticipation of a tasty tidbit (which you always provide!). 

Continue rewarding their bravery, and keep sessions short by using less than five to 10 repetitions at a time. Give your dog frequent re-set breaks and make each session brief and positive. Keep practicing this game until your dog is calmly looking at the trigger and then back at you in anticipation of the reward. 

Gradually and incrementally decrease the distance to the trigger over time. Always keep enough distance so that your dog remains under threshold. 

The end goal is a conditioned emotional response so that your dog remains calm when they see the trigger. Eventually the dog glances at the trigger and looks back at you, then you click and treat while the dog looks at your face. 

Your dog now has a calm conditioned response while in the presence of what used to be their trigger. 

What Is Counterconditioning

Anyway?

Counterconditioning literally means opposite learning. It's the process of modifying behavior through a new association with a stimulus of an opposite emotional affect. 

When a dog feels fear, aggression, or excitement about a particular stimulus, the dog is counterconditioned (learns the opposite emotion) to feel comfort, friendliness, or calm toward the same stimulus.

A classic example is the fear of men. Many dogs, for a multitude of reasons (sometimes the reason is unknown due to an event that occurred in the dog's past, sometimes the reason is obvious; counterconditioning works either way) have a fear of men.

Pix was successfully counterconditioned from fearing her new dad to loving him

The dog has learned to feel fear when in the presence of men. In counterconditioning, the dog learns the opposite feeling when in the presence of men: the dog learns to feel comfortable.

Counterconditioning is achieved by keeping enough distance between the dog and the trigger (in this case a strange man) so that the dog stays under threshold, or still showing quiet and calm behavior, while providing things the dog finds enjoyable and valuable while in the presence of the trigger. 

How Counterconditioning Works

Anytime the dog is anywhere in the presence of the trigger and is still under threshold, toss your dog treats they find highly valuable. Often boiled chicken or any other food your dog finds delicious works well as a reward. 

Over time and several repetitions, the dog eventually learns to associate the wonderful feeling that good things happen whenever they're in the presence of strange men. 

At first the dog only receives treats from the trusted handler. Remain in this phase for however long it takes for the dog to remain calm within visual distance of the trigger. 

Gradually progress from the dog receiving treats tossed from the trusted handler to the man tossing food treats in the dog's direction, at first from a distance while walking calmly past the dog. Over time as the dog becomes more comfortable the man tosses treats gradually closer to the dog. 

Be sure the dog stays under threshold. Remember the dog does not have to interact with, be petted by, or do anything with the man. 

The dog does not have to sit or perform any specific behavior. The only criteria is that the dog stays calm while in visible distance of the trigger, and is rewarded for remaining calm. 

This process worked well with our foster dog Pix.

Pix could not even be in the same room with my spouse Chris when we first got her without fearfully growling at Chris and cowering away. Within 23 days of operation "When I See Dad Chicken Rains From The Sky" (counterconditioning) Pix was nudging under Chris' hand to ask him to pet her and Chris was able to pat her all over, scratch her ears, and Pix even slept next to him in bed.

This same process worked with other strange men including our pool cleaner, our gardener, and eventually Pix's new dad when she was adopted successfully into her forever home. 

Pix in the mid-phase of counterconditioning. She voluntarily approached Chris and lay at his side. When Dad's around, wonderful things happen!

Pearls:

• Keep enough distance so your dog remains calm while rewarding them for noticing the trigger.

•  Practice with a neutral target at home if needed before introducing the trigger.

• Click or say "Yes!" and reward them when your dog glances at the trigger, then add the verbal cue "Look!"

• Reward bravery and keep sessions short and positive.

• Provide frequent breaks and maintain positivity while teaching.

• Gradually decrease the distance to the trigger while being sure your dog is far enough away to remain calm.

• A positive emotional response where your dog remains calm in the presence of the trigger is built with conditioned positive feelings associated with what used to be the trigger.

Questions? Comment here, I'm happy to offer suggestions to get you started teaching your dog to feel better about their triggers. 

First Things First

Yay! You've Adopted a Rescue!

You just adopted a border collie. So let's do the things: Walks! Hikes! Frisbee! Picnics! Even dog sports, right?

Wrong. Or rather, not just yet. Your newly adopted rescue dog needs time, typically about three months but sometimes even longer with high-intensity herders. 

Time to fully decompress, learn the house rules, continue counter-conditioning, form positive emotional responses to everything new around them, and begin the bonding process with you, their new family. 

Two rescue dogs at different waypoints in their respective journeys

Seven Tips to Improve Your Odds

Here are seven tips to improve your odds before adopting a dog that needs remedial socialization (adapted from Pat Miller's Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life):

1. Have a solid understanding of counter-conditioning, desensitization, and conditioning positive emotional responses. Make a strong commitment to practice these with them every single day. 

2. Read Do Over Dogs by Pat Miller, The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell, Help For Your Fearful Dog by Nicole Wilde, and Dogs Are From Neptune by Jean Donaldson. Acquire solid training manuals like Excel-erated Learning by Pamela Reid and Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar.

3. Be prepared to assertively protect your dog from unwanted advances by well-meaning strangers. Do not allow people or their dogs to interact with or approach your dog until your dog is well-socialized enough to tolerate interaction and approaching.

4. Know that love is not enough. Many well-meaning adopters believe that giving a psychologically neglected pup a home filled with love is enough to "fix" the problem. Don't fool yourself. Love is an important part of the equation, but it takes a lot of work too.

5. Be prepared for heartache. Some under-socialized dogs -- most likely those who are genetically sound -- do respond well to remedial socialization and turn into reasonably well-socialized companions. Others don't. If you don't succeed in enhancing your dog's social skills, are you prepared to live with a fearful dog who might be at risk for snapping -- you, visitors, children? 

6. Think long and hard before opening your heart to a do-over-dog that has unusual behavioral needs, high drive, or rehabbing. If you fail them, they may not get another chance.

7. Remember there are gradations of energy levels, drive, and personalities among rescue dogs. You do as much of a good thing by adopting a dog with small issues as you do one with large challenges. Both dogs are in desperate need of a human to call their own, one who won't give up easily on them, and one who will at the right point in their lives, whether sooner or later, be there to give them a gentle goodbye.

Allow Time To Establish Safety and Comfort

Modern, scientific, and common sense dog training rejects any use of compulsion or aversive tools. However from Applied Dog Behavior and Training Volume Three by Steven Lindsay, we still know that "loss of safety and comfort mediates escape behavior and defensive aggression." A decrease in reward promotes increased arousal, scanning, and vigilance, whereas reward-based training using positive reinforcement intensifies attention and interest, promoting fearless seeking and exploratory activities. 

Any newly adopted dog in the first days and weeks surely experiences feelings of loss of safety and comfort, at least early on. Allowing time for feelings of increased safety and comfort to be established, combined with ongoing positive counter-conditioning to achieve positive conditioned emotional responses sets up our dogs for success in their new home. 

Reach out to me if you need ideas on implementing counter-conditioning and creating positive conditioned emotional responses. As a rescue volunteer, I want every dog to find the perfect fit.

It's okay to accept your dog for who they are. Pat Miller says like a good marriage, the best dog guardians enter into a relationship with expectations about their new canine partners. If the journey reveals a different path, they adjust accordingly and still fulfill the social contract they made to love them "until death do us part." 

These are humans who know how to love their dogs. Every dog should be blessed with at least one, for the rest of their life.  

The author and her now right-hand dog, once a repeat rescue that boomeranged into her life

Pearls:

The TOP TWO ideas to implement when adopting a dog:

• Patience. Allow enough quiet, in-home, one-on-one bonding time, starting with a minimum of three months, for your new dog to decompress, learn the house rules, and continue learning positive conditioned emotional responses.

• Positive reinforcement. Use counterconditioning, desensitization, and simple reward-based training games to establish feelings of safety and comfort for your new dog.

Treibball with Jackie: Five Successful Pens

Jackie, as with all things, is very gentle with her sheep. But she is getting good practice gathering and penning during treibball.

Pearls:

• The handler keeps her back centered toward the goal so the dog is directed by your body language to herd the correct direction toward the pen. Always pay the dog when they are oriented directly toward the pen.

• Homework includes starting down with distance. Add the cue of the handler's arm held straight up above their head.

Jackie making successful gathers and pens:

Practice, practice, practice!