Foundations for Agility Week 3

Homework this week will focus strongly on two-on-two-off contact behavior "Feet!" because we are gearing up to begin the baby dog walk soon! We'll continue using Jackie's plank and the ceramic nose target to reinforce "Go walk!" "Feet!"  

Interestingly, I can add a bit of distance in class but at home when I add too much distance Jackie occasionally plows past the end of the plank and misses the reinforcement zone.  As always, slow and steady wins the race so for now I will add only the tiniest increments of distance at home to keep a high rate of reinforcement and motivation.

In class today we re-visited start lines, which are very important and set the tone for your entire run.  Jackie did very well on her first start line.  When first learning to go through a hoop at the start line, it is helpful to put your back to the line and sit (or down) your dog very close to the hoop, to make it obvious to the dog where she should run. As we add the tunnel obstacle, I must remember to keep moving at the same speed so Jackie keeps her forward momentum into the tunnel.  

Using an exploding lotus ball stuffed with cookies today for the first time seemed to be a viable tool.  Ideally we will continue to use the lotus ball to toss in front of Jackie to reinforce running distance ahead of the handler.

Jackie adding a tunnel obstacle to the startline, reacquainting herself with the tunnel after not seeing it for several weeks:

   

The tunnel is becoming more familiar:

Pearls:

• Practice contact behavior this week, as the baby dog walk is debuting soon!
• Start lines are worth perfecting and proofing, and set the tone for your entire run
• Tunnels are fun! Don't slow down at all as I cue the tunnel and approach it and run; expect Jackie to enter the tunnel and keep moving-- don't slow down at all, keep the same pace

Jumping, and playing with multiples

Our new backyard jump standard arrived today, and it was received with much success.  This is the second time in her life that Jackie has seen a jump standard, and she seems to really love jumping.  Gunner is a pro jumper, in the past I've seen him jump up and touch the top of a nine-foot fence, and he is expert at hopping over and onto a myriad of things.

I'm experimenting with having all three dogs together while we play.  While one dog plays the other two are reinforced for being on their place platform.  It's interesting training multiples, and I've found a group name works best for group commands and releases.  "Dogs break!" is the group release, and "Dogs down!" or "Dogs go to your place!" has been working well.  

For now I'm having to use a very high rate of reinforcement to keep Gunner from hopping up and joining in, especially while Jackie and I are doing the fun agility stuff that Gunner loves.  Jackie and Rosco are happy to be couch potatoes and lie on their cot while watching Gunner play.

In consideration of a fantasy that includes showing the BCs in Rally Pairs, Gunner and Jackie have been practicing walking beside me in heel position, and today we started playing "Dogs sit!" and "Dogs down!" and "Dogs stand!" in unison.  The group sit and down are fairly good, and the group stand still needs some polishing. Jackie needs to learn "Stand!" on her own since her stand needs to progress to being as automatic as Gunner's.

Gunner saying "Pick me! Pick me" while Jackie and Rosco are happy to relax

Gunner jumping ~16 inches, I raised the standard bar for just a couple jumps to see how it would look in a video:

Jackie jumping ~8 inches, this is only her second time seeing a jump:

Pearls:

• Backyard jumping is a favorite with the Border collies (no jumping for Rosco as he has a history of degenerative disc disease)
• Tag-team with the threesome is going well: I play with one pup for a few moments while the other two relax on their cot, then tag in the next competitor to come play while the other takes their place on the cot
• Videotaping is simple with the Joby tripod
• Jackie seems to love jumping, and I'm happy with the backyard jump standard from Midlee pet supplies

For ease of use and flexibility in different environments I'm pretty happy with this Joby GorillaPod tripod I ordered for capturing videos.  

Rally 1 Final Week

Gunner graduated from Rally 1 tonight, and we're looking forward to continuing to Rally 2 classes! An exposed weakness was absolutely still, all four paws planted sit-stay while the handler walks around the dog.  Gunner must be reinforced for keeping all four paws still and in the exact same place while he is in sit-stay, and while I walk around.  So that will be a focus of our homework this week.  

Working in front of a mirror or intentionally memorizing exactly where/how each foot is placed on the ground before you move away can help reveal when the dog stays still, and only reward when the dog remains completely planted. Even if you have to go back to just one or two steps away, then reinforce for staying, and gradually build up to staying in place as the handler walks around. Remember to walk very wide around your dog to give him plenty of space to feel secure that he won't get stepped on.

In class tonight after warming up, we practiced heeling on a line with 360-degree circles (right and left were both practiced) and continuing ahead on the same line. 

Our coach set up two different mini-courses of multiple signs.  We got to see the Start, Heeling and Conduct sign tonight for the first time.  Here is the description from ASCA: "Start, Heeling and Conduct: designates the beginning of the course; team lines up with dog sitting in heel position just before or at the left of the sign. All imperfections in heeling on the course between stations shall be scored here. All Handler Errors and misbehavior not associated with specific exercises while in the ring shall also be scored here."

Our coach reminded us that at the start sign before beginning, it is permissible and a good idea to get your dog lined up in perfect heel position to begin since you haven't yet begun being judged.  Never cross the plane of the cone line for any sign until after the individual exercise is performed, with the exception of the finish sign which the team just walks past in heel.  Be sure to walk past the finish sign as that is what clicks the timer to finish, and the times are used as tie-breakers and for pinning (the lowest time breaks the tie and the lowest time combined with the highest score pins highest in the class). 

Another reminder was to be sure to keep your hand held up to your waistline while heeling, and never touch the dog's nose (or touch the dog at all) to avoid giving the impression of luring the dog, even at the start sign before judging has begun. 

The ASCA signs and descriptions for the first mini-course we did tonight:

Designates the beginning of the course; team lines up with dog sitting in heel position just before or at the left of the sign.

Team turns in a small 360 degree (full) circle to the right while in heel position.

Team makes a 90 degree turn to the left in heel position.

While heeling, dog downs in heel position at handler's command and/or signals, handler pauses in heel position while dog remains down. Team heels forward.

Designates the end of the course. Both handler and dog must pass the Finish sign for time to stop.

Note the "Primary" parts of the exercises are underlined. (Think of this as the "essence" of the move in dressage-speak and the rest of the description the "modifiers.") These portions must be performed correctly, or the exercise will be scored Incorrectly Performed (IP). If you realize in the show ring that you made a mistake and will not be able to perform the primary part of the exercise, you can decide to re-do the sign with a deduction of three points, so if you score a perfect 10 on the re-do, you will still get 7 points instead of 0 points for an IP.

The ASCA signs and descriptions for the second mini-course we did tonight: 

Designates the beginning of the course; team lines up with dog sitting in heel position just before or at the left of the sign.

Handler stops, dog sits in heel position. Handler walks around dog and pauses in heel position while dog remains sitting. Team heels forward.

Team makes a 90 degree turn to the left in heel position.

Handler stops, dog sits in heel position. Team heels forward.

Designates the end of the course. Both handler and dog must pass the Finish sign for time to stop.

A reminder that I've gotten previously and again tonight is to be sure to keep plenty of slack in my leash to show that the dog is offering all behaviors independent of the leash. A brisk pace on my part that allows Gunner to offer his "prance" gate is the sweet spot for show ring heeling. 

Pearls:

• Onward to Rally 2!
• Homework this week includes practicing the signs in different locations both at home and while out for a walk
• Visiting novel places and experiencing unique environments (the sliding doors at home depot, elevators at hotels, loud voices at busy restaurants) can help prepare your dog for the trial surroundings
• Four-on-the-floor completely planted stays are to be taught and reinforced
• Always warm up your dog before your initial approach to the start line, so he is on your aids and ready to play Rally
• Take the time to line up your dog and organize yourself in perfect heel position prior to starting a course
• Keep a very obvious loose leash at all times in the ring
• Stay on your side of each individual sign cone until after the exercise is completed (except the finish sign, walk past it to stop the timer)
• Keep your hands well away from the dog to never give the impression of luring (left elbow bent while heeling)
• ASCA Rally rules and signs are here: https://www.asca.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/rallyrules.pdf; note the primary parts of each exercise are bolded and underlined
• In the show ring you can decide to re-do a sign with a deduction of three points
• A heeling pace just brisk enough to show Gunner's "prance" is our show ring sweet spot

Gunner having a jolly on the riverbank

Training Session Progression

Best practices for each training session include warming up with easy exercises, such as hers whats (our coach calls this game "it's yer choice"), sit, down, or any other behavior the dog enjoys, knows well, and has about 100% chance of getting right the first time. I like to do "Bravo" with Gunner since the play bow is an excellent stretching exercise. While out for a walk with Jackie is always a great opportunity to get in several seconds of teaching after Jackie is warmed up and engaged.

Once the dog is thinking and has warmed up, then it's time to begin to teach a novel behavior.  For Jackie, each training session lasts about 20 to 30 seconds, and never more than a minute.  Since Gunner is further along in his education, I may work with him for a minute or just a bit more, depending on what we are learning.

Once I've worked a few seconds with Jackie or less than a minute with Gunner, then it's a good opportunity to work on established behaviors that need to progress or improve. I may work with Gunner on his perch or platform to reinforce heel position and improve body awareness, or work with Jackie on her platform or send to a perch.  This part of the training is also just several seconds.

In the end I always like to finish again with something the dog enjoys and finds very easy.  For Gunner "Be a bear" where he sits up on his haunches, or even just sit or down or any behavior that is both fun and easy for the dog.

Our coach has reminded me that warming up is such a necessary part of the dog's success. Even though we're in the building during class for an hour, the way our coach structures each class more-or-less follows this warm up with easy behaviors,  play novel games, fun easy behaviors, take-a-break progression. On my own, I want to be mindful of an intentional warm up and a fun, easy closure after a learning session. 

As always, if there has been a breakthough behavior offered, or a behavior happens that was especailly desired, big celebrations with whatever it is the dog finds most rewarding is in order! 

To end the session, I simply go to another room or area.  If we've been playing outside, I go inside.  Or if we've been in my study, we'll go into the living room.  In the building during class, we'll move to a crate or onto the settle mat. Physically moving to a different environment is a clear signal we're all done for the moment.

Interestingly, and not coincidentally, this is a similar formula for a schooling session on a dressage horse.

While working with our coach on platform training, she helped me measure the best size platform for Gunner.  The platform should be only just wide enough to accommodate a very straight sit, and long enough for him to lay down; for Gunner it's 9 inches wide by 24 inches long. I'm pretty happy with this platform I ordered from K9 Play Products:

Gunner demonstrating platform work

Pearls:

• Incorporate warm up with something very easy for a few seconds
• Then begin to play a new game from just a few seconds to under a minute 
• Move on to reinforcing previously learned behaviors that need sharpening for a few seconds 
• Ending up with something fun and easy for the dog then take a break 
• Always end while the dog still wants to play
• For new adoptees and puppies, it's best to keep education sessions very short, well under a minute
• For more established pupils, it's still best to keep it as short as possible, occasionally working up to a minute or more depending on the behavior

Jumping!

Jackie took her first agility jump today! In introducing jump training to an agility novitiate, one starts low and slow.  At first you show Jackie the jump, then toss a treat across it onto the floor and she hops over and eats the cookie.  Then you gradually add distance while you point to the jump and toss the treat out in front of her after she jumps. Keep your arm up pointed at the jump line until the dog is across.

Keeping the bar low helps build confidence for jumping, and in Jackie’s case since she is a three year old adult her bone plates are fully fused, but when introducing puppies it’s best to keep it low and not do much jumping until their growth plates are closed, which can be up to 18 to 20 months in very large dogs, or usually about a year in average sized dogs.

It was suggested by our coach that for Jackie we keep the bar well under 16 inches. Basically we want it high enough for her to just have to jump it, to avoid her walking over it. As Jackie’s handler, it is going to be important for me to keep Jackie busy, so speeding up my own approach helped keep Jackie’s energy and focus.

Our homework this week also includes continuing to reinforce two on two off contact behavior “Feet!” with adding distance, and sending to front paws up on a perch “Go bucket!” with adding distance. 

It was good being back in the classroom after a week off while our coach competed both her puppy and her established dog at ASCA national championships last week. 

In anticipation of ongoing jump training, we’ve ordered this backyard quality agility jump from Dog Agility Jumps by Midlee: 

Interestingly, jump training for horses has been a focus of much thought and study, while jump training for agility dogs is relatively new.  The dog world is now awake to the idea that dogs have to collect onto the hindquarters as they approach and jump, and also have to extend to remove strides between jumps or collect to add strides, as with horses.  The other reminder this week is to never allow your dog(s) to play unattended with the agility equipment, as it becomes a potential hazard and we want to avoid any injury, large or small.

Pearls:

• Jumping is fun! Keep the jump low (well under 16”) to build confidence and keep things moving quickly so that Jackie stays busy
• Homework this week includes two-on-two-off contact behavior “Feet!” using a plank and nose target, and  sending to a perch “Go bucket!” with increasing distances
• Stay safe by allowing dogs to play with agility equipment only while supervised and with their handler paying attention

Jackie demonstrating “Go bucket!”

In the ongoing effort to find treats that are interesting and of value, I’ve been training my two black and white seals with minnows. Minnows are a healthy one-bite, if stinky, reinforcer:

Expectation (top) vs reality (bottom):

Rally Week 5

Our Rally homework this week includes continuing to reinforce front tuck sits, and adding right side around finishes, as well as practicing turns in all directions in heel position.

We practiced several turn signs tonight, including 90 degree turns left and right, about turn (to the right) and U turn (to the left), 270 degree turns right and left, and 360 degree turns left and right. There is a specific footfall pattern that is best to use while making a turn while heeling, that helps to cue the dog as well as accommodates his biomechanics so that he stays in perfect heel position. 

As the handler turns right, the dog heeling on the handler's left has to make a bigger turn than does the handler. So as the handler turns 90 degrees right, for example, place your right foot to the right in a small step, then bring the left foot around the small step, then take another step with the right then proceed onward in a normal gate with the left. For a 90 degree turn you do one of these, for a 180 degree turn you do two of these, for a 270 degree turn you do three of these, and for a 360 degree turn you do four.

Here are the ASCA signs: https://www.asca.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/02/rallyrules.pdf

The turn signs we practiced tonight include:

 

Pearls:

• Rally homework includes continuing to use a perch to reinforce heel position, front tuck sits, and practicing the turn signs for heeling
• Handler foot work is key to helping cue your dog and helping your dog maintain heel position; it helps your dog to turn your head and look where you are going before and while you make turns

Feeds and Feeding, Gunner Edition

With the recent diagnosis of Gunner's heart disease, specifically endocardiosis and moderate pulmonary hypertension, I have an increased motivation to provide optimum dietary and environmental support. 

Gunner has an acquired disease that has caused thickening of the valves in the heart; over time this thickening has allowed a leak across the valves (causes the murmur sound) which has led to enlargement of the left heart chambers. Gunner is on medication (7.25mg enalapril every 24 hours and 2.5mg pimobendan every 12 hours on an empty stomach) in an effort to slow down progression and help the heart pump function. He additionally has developed moderate pulmonary hypertension or high blood pressure in the lungs.

My reading has included a literature search of the veterinary cardiology journals, and especially some interesting studies and recommendations from Tufts University Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine about food and its relation to heart disease in dogs. 

I've re-read the revised and expanded edition of The China Study, The Most Comprehensive Study of Nutrition Ever Conducted by T. Colin Campbell, PhD and Thomas M. Campbell, MD (whose dad was a veterinarian) as well as re-reading Good Old Dog, Expert Advice for Keeping Your Aging Dog Happy, Healthy and Comfortable by the faculty of the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University. 

I have just finished reading the new book The Forever Dog: Surprising New Science to Help Your Canine Companion Live Younger, Healthier and Longer by Karen Becker, DVM, and it's been compelling and interesting. I've pre-ordered the soon-to-be-released book Discovering Your Dog, New Information on How To Give Your Canine Pal a Longer, Healthier Life by Chris Zink, DVM, PhD. 

All my reading leads to a few well-known and important conclusions:

• Maintaining a low body weight leads to a healthier longevity
• Daily physical exercise, in almost any form or function, is key to preventing degeneration of both the body and brain
• What you eat, and when, matters: dietary habits influence disease risk, and certain foods can trigger chronic health conditions, while other foods offer strong medicinal and protective qualities even if disease is inherent or already in process
• The collective genomes of the microbes (composed of bacteria, bacteriophage, fungi, protozoa, and viruses) that live inside and on the animal (including human) body known as the microbiome, is important and our diet can be optimized to feed our microbiome
• We should avoid contaminants and carcinogens in our environment such as pesticides, herbicides, processed foods, and off-gassing from household goods; our diet can and should be used to combat and protect us from these contaminants 

My reading also lead me to realize that the highly processed with high heat and "feed grade" ingredients (which can include substandard ingredients, and have had euthanasia drugs detected in the ingredients, which is horrible on several levels) may not be the healthiest option in dog food, so I began searching for the best possible healthy diets for dogs. 

The raw diet is compelling, but it is not at all convenient, becomes time- and cost-prohibitive, and mostly I do not want to risk upset tummy for Gunner or risk bones getting stuck anywhere in Gunner's gi system. Due to Gunner's heart condition, his veterinarian cardiologist has explained to me that Gunner is not a surgical candidate as his condition would likely not survive a surgical procedure, and neither is Gunner a candidate to receive IV fluids nor sub-cutaneous fluids so I do not want to risk dehydration from diarrhea or vomiting, or bones getting lodged. So that eliminates a raw diet for Gunner.

The next-healthiest food option is gently heated at relatively low temperatures 100% human-grade (not "feed" grade) dehydrated food. After communicating with three different dog food brands to suss out sodium and protein content, and even speaking a couple times over the phone with nutritionist Dr. Harvey Cohen (of Dr. Harvey's brand dog food), the dehydrated food that emerged as a good option is The Honest Kitchen brand Gourmet Grains Beef and Salmon Recipe.  

Of course I consulted with Gunner's veterinary cardiologist who approved this diet change, with the good advice to be sure to transition to the new food slowly over a few weeks to avoid any tummy upset. Gunner is already getting a good spoonful of pumpkin on every meal, so that should help with the transition as well. 

After slowly transitioning Gunner over a few weeks and it’s established that Gunner is tolerating the new diet well, I will gradually begin the additional supplements of Wholistic Pet brand Deep Sea Salmon Oil with vitamin E, and will consider a supplement that includes probiotic, glucosamine, collagen, turmeric, MSM, chondroitin, hyaluronic acid (in a SmartPak brand combo senior soft chew that Rosco has been taking successfully for years), as well as rotate organic, heart-healthy, immune-boosting, microbiome-feeding whole food toppers from the human grocery store. 

When considering any dog's diet, most veterinarians agree that 10% of a dog's diet can be "junk" and not upset the status quo, so I'm using that 10% margin to put health-boosting additions such as blueberries, carrots, and mushrooms (which serve as probiotic food to the microbiome) as toppers on my other dogs' food, and will begin doing that with Gunner after he has successfully transitioned to the new diet. 

Gunner's current diet, away from which he will be transitioning to the new Honest Kitchen brand food, is Fromm brand Salmon A La Veg dry kibble, with the aforementioned dollop of pumpkin on each meal.

Pearls:

• See bulleted list above
• Some of the books in my library I've found to be helpful are pictured here:

• A book that has been recommended by Patricia McConnell that I've pre-ordered for when it is released:
  
  
  
• After doing some reading, and with approval from Gunner's veterinarian cardiologist, the dog food that I've chosen for Gunner:

  

  
  

Gunner Rally Lesson

In an effort to take a deeper dive into correct basics for obedience games, Gunner and I had a private lesson with our coach Robin Barber today at Cowtown Dog Sports. Robin gave us several good ideas to build solid obedience behaviors.

Robin introduced the use of platforms for playing heeling games.  The first step is to find the correctly sized platform, which for Gunner is nine inches wide by about four feet long; long enough for Gunner to lie down on, and only just wide enough for him to sit perfectly straight.

The handler begins with the dog on the platform in heel position, and I reinforce for being in that position.  Then I release Gunner "Break!" and toss a cookie behind me and let him eat it off the floor. Then I say "Heel!" and he returns to heel position on the platform.  Eventually the handler's left arm bent at the elbow becomes the cue for the dog to maintain heel position.

We explored using perchwork to reinforce heeling behavior. Gunner places his front paws on an overturned small rubber feed pan.  At first I'll get Gunner to independently pivot his hindquarters around the perch while his front paws stay on the perch. Once he is smoothly pivoting around the perch while I keep my hand about a foot or more above his head, I can step in toward the perch and reinforce him for pivoting toward me in heel position and click and treat as his shoulder or hip bumps my leg. I'll work to fade any verbal or hand cue, so that the cue for Gunner to pivot toward me is me stepping away from him around the perch with my left elbow bent in the cue for heel position.

Pearls:

• Platforms and perches are useful tools for practicing obedience games
• A platform nine inches by four feet can be made by cutting mats into the correct size then duct taping them together to form about a four inch platform height
• Gunner autonomously pivoting his hindquarters toward me to assume and maintain heel position from a visual cue of my left arm being bent at the elbow or the verbal cue "Heel!" is the goal of current perchwork 

Gunner demonstrating the use of an overturned goat-sized rubber feed pan as a perch:

Photo Session

In response to an online promotional, the other H. sapiens I live with and I took the dogs to have professional heirloom quality portraits made at Platinum Portrait Artists in Dallas.  It was a fun experience; the co-owner and photographer Shane did a great job moving quickly through the session and keeping it interesting and easy for us and the pups.  

The experience exposed an idea for a useful trick, which is: getting the dogs to look at a camera while someone else is holding the camera, and while I am in the picture with the dogs.  Gunner, good boy that he is, has been so reinforced for looking at me that he won't take his eyes off my face if I'm in the photograph. 

We weren't able to get any good pictures of the five of us, which is ok since we wanted pictures of just the dogs anyway.  Another useful trick idea is working with the dogs as a threesome to get simultaneous behaviors, like a triple sit, down, or stand stay. The circus act is growing. 

Pearls:

• Getting everyone cleaned up and groomed, and in front of a camera with no leashes or collars was interesting, and exposed some ideas for new tricks
• Photographing animals is challenging; today I learned that a small, heavy ball the size of a ping pong ball wrapped in cloth with short streamers attached to it makes a good object for the photographer to toss up lightly into the air to make good ears and cute expressions
• When all else fails, there's always photoshop

Foundations for Agility 2 Week 1

Today Jackie started Foundations for Agility 2 class, with much success.  We continued working on contacts; for now it is best to use a nose target at the end of the contact for every time we play.  This is to be sure the contact behavior is 100 percent solid so when we progress to the actual dog walk on an agility course she has already perfected the behavior and has a very high chance of success from the outset. It also helps to avoid injury by teaching her to keep her balance front and forward while moving across the dog walk or A frame.

For only the second time in her life, Jackie saw an agility tunnel today, and aced taking the cue, running through, and coming out all while staying connected to me.  Because she is a superb dog to be sure, but also because our coach has taken the time to show us the building blocks necessary to achieve error-free success for each novel behavior. I am really beginning to understand why foundation games are so important; as with dressage, the sexy stuff comes easy when you have solid basics.  And for dog agility, solid basics means a confident dog that stays engaged with the handler and has a very high rate of success and thus reinforcement, and masters each small step before moving on to the next behavior. 

Our homework this week is to focus on reinforcing contact behavior using the plank and the nose target. We can begin to work on adding a little distance, as Jackie understands the two-on-two-off behavior I can begin to send her ahead to the plank and reinforce her for "Feet!" as well as have her sit-stay and then I go out in front of the plank and release her "Break! Go walk! Feet!" and reinforce her for the two-on-two-off behavior.  I'm loving Jackie's new plank from Cato Outdoors products:

Jackie has only seen a tunnel one time in her life before today:

Pearls:

• All-important foundation games are giving us momentum
• Homework includes continuing to reinforce two-on-two-off "Feet!" contact behavior, and adding distance in front of and behind the handler
• Thanks to a solid foundation from a fantastic coach, Jackie is nailing more advanced novel obstacles like tunnel with a very high rate of success