Feeds and Feeding, Neurotic Edition

At Gunner's most recent cardiology appointment on January 12, 2022 with his residency-trained in cardiology veterinarian Dr. Rebecca Fields Benny, we got the good news that Gunner's heart size and overall condition are stable.  This finding is based on radiographs of the chest (Gunner's heart and esophagus), blood pressure, kidney panel, echocardiogram of the heart, and pulmonary pressure.

Gunner's heart size is stable but his pulmonary pressures were slightly higher at this visit than at the last visit. His kidney values were mildly elevated at this visit. This is a change this visit compared to September when the cardiologist veterinarian last checked. A low protein kidney diet is not recommended for cardiac patients as Gunner needs adequate protein to prevent muscle loss.  Gunner also cannot receive safe fluids under the skin. 

Dr. Fields Benny recommended having Gunner's Creatinine and BUN values rechecked in 8 weeks with his primary veterinarian Dr. J. Scott Mellina to monitor for trends.  On 1/12/22 Gunner's creatinine value was 2.0 mg/dL (normal is 0.5 to 1.8) and his BUN was 29 mg/dL (normal is 7 to 27).

Gunner's doppler ultrasound of his heart:

Radiographs showing Gunner's enlarged heart pushing into his trachea. Eat a bag of dicks heart disease

Moving on, in the ongoing effort to provide optimum nutritional support I've decided to try a diet based on raw protein for Gunner (as well as Jackie since she is an active sport dog too). The diet I've chosen is Dr. Harvey's brand Canine Health base mix food that I add fresh meat such as chicken or beef, and add oil to the base mix food. This base mix has 54mg sodium per 100 kcal (versus 89.5mg sodium per 100 kcal of his current diet The Honest Kitchen Beef and Salmon) which is an improvement since cardiac patients need to limit their sodium intake. 

I have started the process of cautiously transferring Gunner onto the new diet.  We're on day two of about 21 days of slowly transitioning to the new diet, being careful to avoid any negative GI issues. 

Jackie is also transitioning to the new diet from her current kibble. She is my pickiest eater, and early taste tests are favorable.  As a palatability trial, I offered Jackie just the Canine Health base mixed with hot water.  I was surprised that Jackie preferred the Canine Health over her current Fromm kibble, even without the addition of any meat.

The protein source I'm starting with is ground hamburger, fed raw but slightly warmed with hot water, to avoid stomach upset that could occur from eating very cold meat out of the refrigerator. Since all my dogs are already on fish oil, my source for the added oil is Wholistic Pet Organics brand deep sea wild Alaskan salmon oil. 

Though I'm transitioning very slowly, eventually the complete diet for Gunner will be 3/4 cup dry Dr. Harvey's Caninie Health base mixed with 1/2 cup hot water, 8 ounces of protein (hamburger, chicken, beef hearts, salmon, eggs etceteras), and 2 teaspoons of Wholistic Pet Organics deep sea wild salmon oil per day, divided into two meals: one meal in the morning and one meal in the afternoon. Supplements include a dollop of canned pumpkin per meal, a heavy dash of organic ground turmeric, and SmartPak brand Smart Canine combo senior chews, one chew per meal.

Pearls:

• Dr. Harvey's Canine Health has been recommended to support health and longevity by people whose opinions matter. It is a dehydrated whole-foods base mix that you add raw protein such as hamburger, beef hearts, fish, chicken, or eggs as a protein source and oil as a fat source
  
  
  
• SmartPak's Smart Canine Combo Senior contains key ingredients for healthy joints, tendons, and ligaments, including glucosamine, chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid (HA), and collagen; in addition, ingredients such as turmeric, resveratrol, devil’s claw, yucca, and methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) help address discomfort associated with aging; it also provides prebiotics and probiotics to help support a normal digestive system

  

  
  

  

  
  
• Organic turmeric has anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer effects
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• Salmon oil provides omega 3 fatty acids, which benefit heart health and brain function, reduces inflammation and strengthens the immune system
  
  
  

• A kitchen scale that measures ounces (as well as grams and pounds), has an easy-to-disinfect stainless steel surface, and a tare button that subtracts the container weight to zero out the scale is helpful in measuring accurate amounts of raw protein. This scale was 9 bucks and it works well: 
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• Careful prep, cleanup, and keeping hands, surfaces, and tools clean and disinfected are key to preventing salmonella and other germs from taking hold on prep surfaces or in food bowls. It's easy enough to put dishes in the dishwasher to be sterilized, good ol' handwashing with hot water and soap, and 409 antibacterial kitchen disinfectant is a simple way to keep tools and surfaces disinfected when dealing with raw food
  
  
  
• This electric glass tea kettle heats water in less than four minutes and has proven very convenient as I can leave it filled with water on the kitchen counter in my prep area for use on-demand for rehydrating the base mix; pouring hot water over the cold protein out of the refrigerator is just enough to warm it without cooking so it is still raw
  
  
  

Seems like a lot of fuss... and it is... and it's worth it to keep this good buddy feeling his best

Agility 1 Week 5

Jackie had a big day of firsts! She got to see an actual agility field for the first time, we played on the full-sized dog walk for the first time, and we played on the A-frame for the first time today, all with much success. 

When first introducing the dog walk and A-frame I need to stay up fairly close to Jackie while she is still learning. The A-frame is very physically challenging for dogs because it is so steep and they have to hold themselves on the downward slope and in 2o2o position so it is best not to play the A-frame too often, but often enough to gradually build strength and proficiency. 

Pearls:

• It's a good idea to build lots of value for 2o2o behavior, so the dog starts to want to take every opportunity to get into 2o2o
• Seems obvious, but remember this is all for fun! Stay relaxed if Jackie wants to have a sniff at something or a moment to look around
• Always aim for perfect practice; however mistakes are data points and just another way of learning; if I stay positive, so does Jackie, and anyway we're doing it all for fun so keep that idea always in the forefront!
  
  
  

Rally 2 Week 5

Gunner graduated from Rally 2 tonight.  Now he will progress to Rally 3 with the goal of having fun playing Rally together. We're grateful for our coach's support and appreciated the reminder that Gunner definitely needs a job.

Tonight we played two new signs, the 1,2,3 signs.  

Halt 1-2-3: Halt, 1- 2- 3: Handler stops, dog sits in heel position. While maintaining heel position, Team heels one handler step, handler stops, dog sits. Team heels two handler steps, handler stops, dog sits. Team heels three handler steps, handler stops, dog sits. Team heels forward.

The handler has to be early in asking the dog to sit so he knows not to keep forging onward while the handler is stopping after only taking one, a couple, or three steps. During the walkthrough, be mindful of how close to (or far from) the sign cone the team needs to be to have the right amount of space to finish all three steps.

Call Dog Front 1 - 2 - 3 Backwards: Team stops heeling forward, as handler steps backwards and calls dog to front position, dog sits facing handler. Handler takes one step back with dog, dog sits facing handler. Handler takes two steps back with dog, dog sits facing handler, Handler takes three steps back with dog, dog sits facing handler. Handler has dog return to heel position by the method of choice without sitting. Team heels forward.

Gunner did this fairly well.  His front paw waving (a vestige of his trick training) was making me laugh but we persevered through the class clown antics.

Pearls:

• Homework this week includes working on prompt sits while the handler takes only one step, or only a couple steps.  Vary the steps randomly so the dog does not start to anticipate a pattern.
• Front sits are pretty solid, and we will continue to reinforce these.

Agility 1 Week 4

To encourage prompt startlines for Jackie, I should only lead out in front of her a more modest distance. As we continue to get to know one another, Jackie will gain confidence to burst forward at the start line when I say "Break!" 

Today we played a mini agility course of a startline hoop, dog walk, tunnel, and two upright jumps on a straight line.  When pointing along Jackie's path, I need to point straight ahead along her path of travel.

Pearls:

• Homework this week will be to reinforce prompt startlines, continue to reinforce 2o2o contact behavior, and continue to build value for jumping
• Jackie loves chasing me from behind, so to the extent that is possible it is good for now to get out in front of her while still staying connected with her to encourage speed on her part

Jackie will eventually learn to get more distance in front, and for now I can use her love of chasing me to encourage speed

Agility 1 Week 3

Jackie debuted the dog walk today! It was fun seeing all our foundation games to learn contact behavior come together to produce great results.  We were able to run back and forth over the dog walk, then add a tunnel before and after the dog walk.  Jackie is beginning to incrementally add speed and distance.

For dogs learning the baby dog walk, keep a high rate of reinforcement, with high value reinforcement every time she successfully displays correct contact behavior over the dog walk, and occasional jackpots for the first time and for adding speed or distance.  (Our high-value reinforcement cookies today were leftover holiday turkey and steak cut up into tiny bites.)  

To begin, I directed Jackie to hop up on the low side of the dog walk and get in two-on-two-off position and reinforced her for 2o2o then released her.  We repeated that a few times and Jackie organically started to explore across the entire dog walk, offering the behavior because we have done so much good foundation play. 

Our coach reminded us before we started that the dogs often get the lightbulb moment on the dog walk quickly because they have been playing 2o2o behavior on their foundation planks. Robin also reminded us to make every reasonable effort not to let the dog jump down off the dog walk, but Jackie was more interested in running across the dog walk properly right from the outset.

Reinforce when correct contact behavior is offered, and ignore mistakes.  For "baby" agility dogs it is fine if they run over the dog walk on their own or hop up onto the dog walk-- we want to encourage them to approach the dog walk and keep it fun and valuable for the dog.

Our coach reminded us today that keeping agility (and all behaviors really) a fun game, by being energetic and enthusiastic, helps the dog stay engaged and enjoy playing. 

Jackie enthusiastically understanding driving out ahead of the handler to run the dog walk

Pearls:

• Reinforce every time across the dog walk while teaching the agility initiate, and jackpot for new correct behaviors or behaviors that the dog gets correct after previously struggling
• Stay positive and enthusiastic with your voice and maintain a high level of reinforcement including cheerful praise
• Homework this week includes continuing to reinforce contact behavior, and continuing to create value for jumps and startlines 

Video highlight clips of Jackie's first time on the baby dog walk:

Agility 1 Week 2

When I say "Break!" to start the run I need to move, and Jackie will move with me.  A benefit of watching video of our training sessions is I can see that I need to stand up taller, point straight at the path I want Jackie to take, and move in a smooth motion rather than slowing and speeding. Instead I should direct her clearly along the path I want her to run and maintain my own forward momentum with smooth body movement.

Our coach suggested that I work on mini-courses with turns toward me "Here!" without Jackie, like one does when walking the course at an agility trial.  The path and the handler's motion will become second nature; eventually you get to a point where you don't have to stop and think, but that you know each target on the agility course so well it becomes one smooth continuum of movement. 

We are continuing to reinforce "Feet!" two-on-two-off contact behavior.  We will begin to fade the nose target, as well as add distance, as well as drive from behind or eventually run past the dog while she goes into 2o2o position on the plank. For now we are continuing to use a nose target at the end of the plank to reinforce Jackie's focus being straight and low, which will help her balance and proprioception once she is on the elevated dog walk and other contact obstacles.

I need to continue to build value for going over an individual jump.  This week in class we raised Jackie's bar height from 8 inches to 12 inches, with much success.  Jackie is doing a good job with starting to run at a faster pace.

Jackie jumping 12 inches today for the first time

Video clips of Jackie playing a mini-course of turns toward the handler "Here!" and a straight line of jumps into a tunnel "Go! Go go!"

Pearls:

• Maintain tall forward momentum and smooth movement
• At startlines say "Break!" and then move, and Jackie will move with me
• Practice turns and straight lines without your dog, as you would when walking a course at a trial
• Homework includes continuing reinforcing contact behavior, practicing startlines, running mini courses without Jackie, and building value for going over jumps

Agility 1, Week 1

Jackie began regular Agility 1 class today! Our homework this week includes continuing to work on contact 2o2o behavior, continuing to reinforce 1,2,3, go game, and proofing our stay-to-release.

The first way to proof a stay is by having the dog "Sit!" then mark and treat. Then "Sit, wait" and take one step and release "Break!" and treat. Build up to I'm walking away several meters and having Jackie stay for varying amounts of time with varying distractions such as toys, food, or other dogs.  

Today we worked on driving a mini-course of a straight line of three hoops with "Break! Go! Go!" as well as a mini-course of two hoops and a left turn while the dog is on the handler's right side "Break!" "Here!" Remember to say "Here!" only once, and in general the less chatter from from the handler, the better.

We also played a mini course of hoop, tunnel, hoop. The handler must trust the dog to go into the tunnel, and keep moving forward while driving the dog.  I must be sure to point accurately at the tunnel mouth where I want to aim Jackie to enter.

Jackie hooping it up

Pearls:

• Homework includes proofing startlines and 1,2,3, Go game
• Contact behavior is coming along nicely
• Less handler chatter, the better; when you say something, it should mean something
• Point accurately at the tunnel enterance 

The "Adopt Don't Shop" Conundrum

I strongly support rescue.  Of course I do.  I've never had a dog that wasn't either given to me by someone or adopted from a breed rescue. Most dog lovers, including ethical breeders, support the idea of ending suffering and neglect for all dogs as well.  

I admit to loving purebred dogs such as Border collies, Australian shepherds, and Cocker spaniels, and I realize there is an element of hypocrisy in desiring the traits of a wonderful purebred dog but never writing a check to an ethical breeder who works to humanely and carefully produce these purebred dogs. On the other hand, as long as my preferred type of dog continues to be neglected and abanded to end up in shelters, I plan to continue offering a home to these otherwise discarded dogs. 

Yes, there is a selfish motive in there: that I end up having a dog with characteristics that appeal to me.  If it weren't for some breeder, somewhere, my dog wouldn't exist. But also yes: I'm committed to the idea that I'm giving a do-over dog that someone else discarded a second chance. I want my cake and eat it too. I am grateful when I discover an ethical breeder doing a good job of painstakingly producing high-quality, talented, and healthy purebred puppies from high-quality, talented, healthy, and health-tested breeding stock. 

Having my Border collie Jackie in my life is the result of rescue and I'm grateful to the body of rescue workers who personally sacrifice so much to help dogs like Jackie every day. A friend of mine responded well-meaningly to a recent post with the familiar phrase "Adopt, don't shop!" I have mixed feelings about this sentiment and want to explore the idea further.

Let's follow the phrase "Adopt, don't shop" through to its logical conclusion: if all that the supporters of rescue (of which I am one) wish to come true actually happens, that every dog on earth finds a loving forever home or other meaningful career, is prevented from reproducing and lives happily and healthily all the days of each dog's life, and all the cruel puppy mills and unethical backyard breeders are shut, we as dog lovers would suffer a severe shortage of dogs.  And that's not necessarily a bad conclusion as long as there were other humane, sustainable, and cruelty-free sources of procuring a dog.

I support the ethical breeding of dogs as well as rescue.  Ethical breeders who are educated and passionate about their dogs, who breed only a limited number of litters in a lifetime, and those only after having tested for temperament, health, hips, eyes, joints including patellas, genetic proclivity to passing on desirable (and culling the undesirable) heritable traits, heart disease, etceteras; and who have a vested interest in proving their dogs can have viable careers by showing, trialing, titling, and otherwise training their breeding stock with some form of meaningful markers of achievement. 

But now let's say that ethical breeders become our sole source of procuring a dog, for pet, sport, support, service, or the myriad of other careers dogs are capable and wonderful at performing and adding to our lives. Ethical breeders who do all the minimum of pertinent health testing: raise their dogs in an appropriate environment, giving the correct and critical enrichment, care, veterinary needs, and early training that it takes to raise a litter of puppies, as well as maintaining breeding stock to these exacting standards, and breeders who carefully screen the homes into which their puppies are moving to be sure the dog will have a good life with all the essential resources for ongoing enrichment and veterinary care; necessarily these ethical breeders have to charge a minimum of several hundred dollars per dog as the adoption fee, and realistically upwards of several thousands of dollars per dog as the adoption fee.

Then where does that leave the average Jane who wants a dog, or maybe a couple, as a pet, for sport, for all the endless list of pure good that dogs bring into humans' lives? It starts to feel a bit like elite horse-keeping.  

As an aside-- even the rankest of rescue horses such as PMU mares or offspring, the OTTB ex-racers, the broken-down cart horses who end up at auction barns (I have loved and ridden all of these examples over my lifetime), cost at least several hundred to a couple thousand dollars to acquire, never mind the never-ending upkeep costs that continue from day one. If someone just wants a basically sound backyard quality horse that is saddle-trained, expect to pay more than a couple grand on up to tens of thousands. Having a horse is relatively demanding from a resource perspective. Is this the direction we want to move with dogs?  Perhaps.

Is this what the dog-loving community truly wants though? Is this in the best interest of our canine companions?  Maybe it is.  I don't know the answer. What I do know is that a subject with so much passion, effort, and resources, such as breeding, such as rescue, such as keeping dogs for pets, companions, sport, or any other career, or simply from pure genuine love of a dog, is not so simply boiled down to a single phrase of "Adopt, don't shop."

It occurs to me that in the meantime, unethical backyard breeders are selling puppies to less-prepared folks. Dogs that have shortened or otherwise uncomfortable lives due to health or behavioral issues because these backyard breeders, while possibly well-meaning, and who may even maintain the sire and dam in great conditions but fail to test for temperament or health issues, are producing dogs that have a fair likelihood of being abandoned by their purchasers after the offspring are no longer cute puppies and become a burden to these less-well-prepped dog owners at worst, or at best of not living quality, long, healthy lives.  There are still scores of dogs that end up in shelters, like my own Jackie did, with no owner to come for them and in very rough shape mentally and physically. Hateful puppy mills with dogs in the worst imaginable of living horrors are unfortunately still doing business. All these dogs need and deserve a loving outcome.

So yeah, adopt don't shop. If and when we ever get to a dog shortage and find ourselves in a world where only an elite few can afford dogs, maybe all of us do-gooder rescue types will rue the day.  Or maybe not, maybe we'll celebrate.  But in the meantime, until such time as the shelters are empty and the rescuers can take a break from working in the trenches of abject neglect (and worse) that they pluck dogs from every day, I will continue to support both rescue and ethical breeding.  For me and my house, I have had tremendous success adopting dogs from breed rescue, and find that rescue is the best balance for my personal odyssey. 

My opinion is that I just don't picture myself purchasing a great dog from an ethical breeder that is producing quality dogs using principled methods when I can offer a home to the stray or abused shelter dog, even if it is likely that the health and/or temperament of these abandoned dogs may be sub-par to those of their ethically and knowledgeably produced brethren. Does this put me at a training disadvantage? At a competitive disadvantage? At an emotional disadvantage if disease or shortened lifespan reaches out an ugly hand to the dog I love and consider my family? Yes, probably it does.  But if I forfeit this advantage to help a dog in need, then it is forfeit. 

How often has a dog helped me when I am in need? The answer is always.

Pearls:

• Most dog lovers agree that suffering and neglect are worth struggling to end, and the best ways to end unwanted, unhealthy litters as well as to protect dogs from neglect is worth discussing 
• "Adopt, don't shop!" Ok maybe, but we should consider all angles
• For my part, adoption has worked well; yet I admit I love purebred dogs, and it occurs to me they don't grow on trees; until suffering has ended and shelters are empty, I'll continue to adopt from reputable rescue organizations
• Further contemplation and discussion on this subject seems like a good idea

My current three adopted kids

The ashes or grave markers of my previous four kids, all were adopted and loved beyond measure

• Buffy, a purebred Cocker spaniel given to me by my parents.  Buffy passed from geriatric renal failure at 13 years.
• Scarlett, a purebred Cocker spaniel, adopted from a breed rescue. Scarlett was a former puppy mill breeding dog but lived several happy, well-loved years with us. She succumbed to hemangiosarcoma cancer at the approximate age of 6.
• Roo, a purebred Australian shepherd, given to me by a friend in grad school. Roo succumbed to hemangiosarcoma cancer at age 8, exactly one year to the day from Scarlett.
• And finally, our dear Prissy, my first ever purebred Border collie given to me by my friend Patricia who rescued Prissy from neglect. Prissy lived a healthy 16 years and finally passed due to rapid-onset geriatric organ failure.

Agility Contact Workshop, Part 1

Jackie and I successfully participated this Saturday in the Contact Workshop, Part 1 at Cowtown Dog Sports.  The focus was on understanding what stopped contact training is, and how best to train for optimum contact behaviors in the agility ring.

Our coach Robin Barber started the seminar with some background theory about what contacts are and why stopped contacts are good for a number of reasons. Stopped contact behavior, also known as two-on-two-off (or 2o2o), is when the dog goes over the teeter, A frame, or dog walk (the three contact obstacles in agility) and positions themself with two front paws straight on the ground off the end of the board with two hind legs on the board and the dog's weight transfered onto the hind end. The benefits of training a stopped contact include the following: 

Safety for the dog: transfering weight to the rear helps prevent injury, and once a behavior is more clearly understood, the dog gains speed and fluincy which also increases safety. Transferring weight to the hindquarters also helps to lessen the impact on the shoulders and back when descending the A-frame and helps the dog to stay centered in contact with the dogwalk down ramp if she descends rapidly. Stopped contacts allow the handler to catch up with their dog in an already fast-paced game. If the dog pauses at the end of the contact obstacle, this allows the handler to catch up and re-connect with their dog. Finally, stopped contacts make it obvious to the judge that the dog has indeed hit the contact zone; "never make the judge think."

Foundations for training contacts include teaching the dog to drive to a target plate "Feet!" and building value for two-on-two-off behavior at the end of a training plank.

Jackie demonstrating understanding driving into the two-on/two-off position, with her focus straight and low.

There are several ways to build value for contact behavior, including: have the dog walk over a plank to touch a nose target, and marking and jackpotting the straight two-on-two-off behavior, then tossing a cookie away "Get it!" and waiting to see if she will self-load onto the two-on-two-off (2o2o) position on the plank and marking and treating when she does.  You can build value for the 2o2o behavior in many situations and environments: on the sidewalk curb, off the back patio, on the stairs, by marking and reinforcing the 2o2o behavior.  It's important to for the dog to be reinforced for being straight, with her focus forward and low.

Once the dog has value for and understands the intitial 2o2o behavior, you can begin to build speed in a number of ways.  For Jackie today we used a contact target at the end of the plank followed by a food bowl out in front of her.  (Some of the more advanced dogs used toys tossed out in front or driving to a next obstacle.) 

The contact plate helps ensure Jackie stays straight and with her focus forward. "Go! Feet!" when Jackie drives forward over the plank and stops in two-on-two-off position and touches the target, I mark and treat her from the contact plate while she is stopped on the plank in 2o2o position. Then I release her with "Get it!" and she drives ahead to the food bowl where she is again reinforced from eating the cookie out of the bowl.

Jackie driving to a food bowl several feet out from the plank after being released with "Get it!" from straight two-on-two-off (2o2o) position on the plank. We want to see a burst of speed and enthusiasm after the contact as pictured here.

Eventually, and gradually, we will step by step add distance between dog and handler while driving into the two-on-two-off position. Eventually after that we will add running around a barrel (or trash bin, or tree, or whatever) and driving to the plank and waiting in two-on-two-off contact behavior until being released to the next obstacle.  Then we can gradually add running through a tunnel and driving into the 2o2o position, repeat, repeat, repeat. One can gradually build and proof the behavior with such "ninja" tactics as rolling a toy or running at high speeds while aroused; but that will come much later for Jackie and me.

It is important that the dog understands the very basic building block of each step of the behavior. Never do what Robin referred to as "clumping" behaviors together, meaning expecting the dog to understand multiple behaviors being taught together at one time. Instead, the learning process is all a series of building blocks.  At any level of training, it is beneficial to go back to the basic foundation behavior as a refresher, and it is important that solid foundation behaviors are understood and kept fresh for the team of both dog and handler.

Robin emphasized how important solid foundation behaviors are for both contacts and releases.  Even for teams that are competing, trialing, and Q-ing, it is important to stay vigilant in maintaining correct foundation behaviors and have very high standards for startline behavior, releases, and contact behavior. Even training in the ring at a live trial can be beneficial in reinforcing excellent foundation behaviors if needs be.

Some reminders that were repeated during the clinic included:

Robin prompting me to tell Jackie "Feet!" before Jackie ever gets on the plank, so that I give the cue earlier so Jackie has plenty of notice to process and perform the behavior associated with the cue. 

Vary the amounts of time the handler waits before you release the dog so you don't get into a predictable rhythm. You want to be sure the dog is effectively taking your cue, not releasing from the handler's timing, body movement, or anything other than the actual cue.

Remember it's all a series of building blocks.  It is well worth the time and effort to teach and maintain excellent foundation behaviors, and to maintain high standards in reinforcing above-average releases, start lines, and contact behavior.

Some highlight video clips of Jackie learning "Feet!" to drive over a plank into two-on-two-off contact position, and drive ahead "Get it!" to a food bowl:

Pearls:

• Contact Workshop, Part 1 defined contacts, solid two-on-two-off training, and the benefits of teaching stopped contacts
• Always teach the smallest possible increment of a behavior first, before moving on to the next foundation skill; never "clump" behaviors
• Handlers can build value for the dog for two-on-two-off contact behavior in a variety of ways
• Eventually and gradually add distance and other proofs such as running around a barrel and then driving to the contact plank into two-on-two-off position
• Say "Feet!" before Jackie ever gets on the plank
• Vary the amount of time the handler waits before you release the dog so you don't get into a rhythm
• Training contacts (and all education, really) is a series of building blocks; it is worth it to teach and maintain excellent foundation behaviors
• Always maintain high expectations and high standards of quality in reinforcing and playing releases, start lines, and contact behavior

Rally 2, Week 3

Heeling at a brisk pace is Gunner’s working gate, and tonight we played heeling at normal, fast, and slow gates. The Rally judge wants to see a very obvious demarcation between gate speed, so be sure to really slow down for your slow pace.

The mini-courses we played tonight:

 Fast Pace: At sign, team’s speed increases at a noticeably faster than normal pace in heel position until next sign, which must be a Normal Pace sign.

Normal Pace: At sign, team’s speed returns to normal pace in heel position.

Halt, Down: Handler stops, dog sits in heel position. At handler’s command and/or signals Dog downs from sit. Handler pauses. Team heels forward from down.

The second mini-course we played:

Slow Pace: At sign, team’s speed decreases at a noticeably slower than normal pace in heel position until next sign, which must be a Normal Pace or Finish sign.

Normal Pace: At sign, team’s speed returns to normal pace in heel position.

270 Left: Team makes a small 270-degree circle turn to the left in heel position.

It’s helpful to pay attention to the bolded, underlined portions of each sign directives, as that is the essence of the movement and should be the focus for the team.  

Tonight we also played finishes both right and left.  Gunner does an amazing job at following hand cue directions so the left “Finish!” he saw for the first time tonight came easily.  His right “Around!” finish is coming along nicely as well.

Our coach pointed out that enthusiasm is to be valued above precision.  In other words, it is better to see the dog enthusiastically playing the signs rather than a dog who is in “perfect” heel position but that is performing with lack-luster. We want to see a happy dog, willingly and confidently playing along with the handler. 

Pearls:

• Enthusiasm is to be sought and valued over absolute precision
• Show a definitive, marked difference in gate between normal pace, fast pace, normal pace as well as normal pace, slow pace, normal pace
• Within each individual pace, begin with and maintain the same tempo in the pace; immediately and markedly move into the new pace rather than gradually building to get up or down to the new pace
• Give your dog an early heads-up cue for changing paces: “Hurry!” before going fast pace, and “Sloooow” before going slow pace, and “Heel!” to return to normal pace
• As well as the verbal cue, use body language to indicate a pace change: slightly lean forward to indicate fast pace, and slightly lean back to indicate slow pace.  
• Be sure to give your dog the cue before you get the the next cone so he has a heads-up that the pace is about to change