Selective Pressures and Developmental Environments: Why Do Certain Dogs Act That Way?

 In the beginning of domestication, dogs were bred only for working. Dog breeds always reflect the function for which the dog was originally bred.  Selective pressures were based on the work that dogs did to help humans, and we still classify dog breeds based on the work for which they were originally bred.

Original proto dogs that were recently evolved from wolves and our modern dogs share modal action patterns, or MAPs, which are a behavioral sequence that is indivisible and will run to completion once triggered. We know that behavior is subject to variation between individuals.

Dog breeds exhibit breed-typical behaviors due to selective pressures and developmental environments. Selective pressures including breeding for specific traits such as herding, hunting, guarding, or companionship, shape behavior by favoring dogs with desired characteristics.

Developmental environments including early socialization, training, and environment also play a crucial role in molding breed-typical behaviors. Herding breeds like border collies exhibit innate herding behaviors due to selective breeding while hunting breeds like Labrador retrievers display retrieving instincts honed through selective breeding and training.

Dog behaviorists must understand however that a dog’s breed is not always a good predictor of behavior. It’s more likely that while behavior traits are heritable (passed from parents to offspring), breed alone is not a good predictor of behavior. In other words, you may have a very friendly pug and also a very friendly poodle, but you may also have a border collie that howls a lot and a corgi that also howls a lot.

As an example, I have a personal “stereotype” that golden retrievers are easy to train, eager, intelligent family dogs that are reliable with children, but that probably isn’t as breed-related as it is related to the individual’s parents and their rearing/environment.

Research (Morrill et al 2022) points to the idea that the breed of a dog is more predictive of how the individual will look (color, coat, size, facial features) than how that individual will behave.

If I adopt a Boston terrier, I can be fairly sure that individual will be compact, short-nosed, smooth coated (how it looks). Will it also be easy to train, pleasant, and intelligent (characteristics often attributed to golden retrievers)? Possibly. Will the Boston terrier be very energetic and need lots of exercise (again often attributed to golden retrievers)? Also possible.

In general the breed Boston terrier is a better predictor of how the dog will look than how it will behave, and I admit I agree with the ideas from new research that challenge my own breed biases.

Breed-Typical Task Efficiency

For breed-typical task efficiency, factors such as genetics, temperament, physical attributes (size, strength, agility), and specialized training are crucial. Dogs often excel in tasks specific to their breed.

In general, dogs from the sporting group need lots of exercise, love running and swimming, and are athletic and intelligent. Sporting dogs were originally bred as tracking dogs.

Dogs from the hound group generally have excellent olfaction abilities, and good vision, and have varied activity levels depending on the individual breed.

Working dogs are large, strong, and powerful dogs that are excellent guard, police, or rescue dogs. They are labor-intensive assistants and tend to be large, powerful, and strong.

Terriers tend to be small and loving. They are often not friendly to other animals since they were bred to hunt small animals on farms. This popular group has loving personalities and puppy-like features but is often described as difficult to train.

The toy group has dogs that are smaller than other breeds but have big personalities. They fit comfortably into apartment dwellings and make excellent watchdogs. Some toy dogs like the Chihuahua, who originated from Mexico, are very small but excellent companions that while easily provoked are very loyal to their person.

The herding group is a subsection of the working group. These working dogs excel at herding, and that includes behaviors such as nipping and barking. Known to "require a certain skill set" they are nevertheless some of the most intelligent and endearing dogs-- my favorite group.

Dogs with multiple ancestors are sorted into the non-sporting group.  This group of medium to small dogs is not well defined. This group includes wonderful specimens like the poodle, bulldog, and the Boston terrier.

Precious or Predatory? What is Predatory Drift?

Predatory behavior is the observable display of predatory instinct to chase prey. Predatory behavior has largely been bred out of dogs but it is still seen, for example when a dog fetches, chases cars, sniffs while hunting, or shakes a stuffed animal. Predatory behavior in dogs refers to instinctual behaviors related to hunting, such as stalking, chasing, and capturing prey.

Predatory drift occurs when a dog crosses the line and tunes us out because their instincts take over. Predatory drift is potentially dangerous and can be triggered by pain, excitement, or the fight-or-flight response. Predatory drift occurs when a dog's predatory behavior escalates unexpectedly, leading to potential aggression toward humans or non-prey animals.

The variability of predatory behavior between different dog breeds and individuals within each breed is influenced by genetics, breed history, training, and socialization. Breeds with strong hunting instincts, such as terriers or hounds, may exhibit more pronounced predatory behavior, while breeds with lower prey drive may show less interest in hunting behaviors. Individual experiences, temperament, and environmental factors furthe

Translating Stress Vs Distress in Dogs

Context is critical for understanding stress or displacement behaviors in dogs to accurately assess their well-being and address potential issues. Recognizing stress-related behaviors in dogs is important since they indicate various stressors such as fear, anxiety, discomfort, or overstimulation.

Common mild stress-related behaviors are lip licking, scratching, yawning, sneezing, stretching, tucking their tail, shaking off, or raised hackles.

Indicators of moderate stress include avoidance, heavy panting, wrinkled brow, tongue flicks, lowered tail, whining, behaving cautiously or reluctantly while approaching, or pushing against a person to relieve stress.

Extreme stress behaviors include heavy drooling or frothing, pinched ears, hunched shoulders, lowered head, whale eye, arched back, wrinkled brow, flared whiskers and lumpy whisker bed, dilated pupils in strong light, withdrawing into themselves, belching or passing gas, shrinking away, enlarged facial blood vessels, stiff or braced legs, and trying to escape.

By understanding the context of stress or displacement behaviors, pet parents can identify triggers, reduce stressors, provide comfort and support, and create a safe and calm environment. This proactive approach improves the dog’s quality of life and strengthens the human-dog bond.

What's The Difference?

Stress focuses a dog’s energy and is used to cope with a specific situation. While stress is sometimes positive, distress is always negative. Distress leads to physical and mental issues. Severe distress leads to a decrease in physical health such that the mind and body no longer operate normally.

Stress in dogs refers to the body’s response to a challenge or threat, which can be either positive or negative (distress), leading to increased arousal and physiological changes. Distress specifically refers to negative stress that exceeds the dog’s ability to cope, resulting in emotional or physical strain, often accompanied by behaviors indicating discomfort or anxiety.

Recognizing Stress is Important

Stress and distress are significant aspects of dog behavior, and recognizing stress-related and displacement behaviors is crucial to understanding a dog’s emotional state. Stress focuses a dog’s energy and is used to cope with a specific situation. Stress is the body’s response to a challenge, which can be either positive or negative. Distress specifically refers to negative stress that exceeds the dog’s ability to cope.

Identifying stress behaviors is important because it allows guardians to intervene and alleviate the source of stress. Common stress-related behaviors are anxiety-displacement behaviors like lip/nose licking, yawning, or sneezing, shaking, whale eye, dilated pupils, increased shedding, and certain vocalizations. Panting, drooling, pacing, scratching, sniffing the ground, or sudden disinterest in activities are also examples of stress. These behaviors serve as coping mechanisms for dogs to deal with stressful situations or conflicting emotions.

Fight-or-flight response results in long-term negative consequences if the dog is in this mode often. In a fight-or-flight response, the amygdala tells the pituitary gland to release cortisone, adrenaline, and noradrenaline to assist the dog in handling threatening circumstances. It is important to understand that once in the fight-or-flight response, the dog is no longer in control of their body.

The fight-or-flight response in dogs triggers physiological changes such as increased heart rate, elevated blood pressure, dilation of airways, the release of stress hormones like adrenaline and cortisol, and redirection of blood flow to muscles for quick action. It prepares dogs to either confront a threat (fight) or flee from it (flight), aiding in survival during perceived danger.

Recognizing the early signs of the fight-or-flight response in dogs allows caregivers to intervene before the dog reaches a heightened state of stress or aggression. By identifying early indicators such as dilated pupils, tense body posture, increased alertness, panting, trembling, or heightened reactivity, we can de-escalate the situation, provide reassurance, and remove or mitigate the source of stress or threat. This reduces the risk of aggressive behavior or emotional distress and maintains a positive and safe environment for the dog and their humans.

Proactive measures can be taken when we understand stress-related and displacement behaviors to provide comfort and support and create a safe and calm environment for our dogs. This improves the dog’s quality of life and strengthens the bond between the dog and their guardian by instilling trust, security, and emotional health. 

Identifying Canine Body Language

 Dog body language related to stress and/or conflict includes yawning, lip licking, rigid body stance or "freezing," turned head, and a closed mouth. When a dog is stressed, they display behaviors such as licking their lips or nose, or yawning or sneezing to displace anxiety. They may shake as if they're wet, display whale eye if they're uncertain, have dilated pupils, or increase shedding.

Body language related to stress and/or conflict includes tense body posture with raised hackles, a furrowed brow, and a closed mouth or lip licking. Dogs may exhibit avoidance behaviors such as turning away, yawning, or attempting to hide. Signs of conflict can include a stiff body, wide eyes, and ears held back or flattened against the head, accompanied by growling or snapping when feeling threatened or uncomfortable.

It's important to know that if a dog enters the physiological process of fight-or-fight, the situation is no longer under the dog's control. Long-term negative consequences are likely if the dog is in fight-or-flight mode often, and being in fight-or-flight is exhausting physically, mentally, and emotionally to a dog.

A relaxed and neutral dog has happy, almond-shaped eyes, a slightly open relaxed mouth, and naturally relaxed ears (so understanding your dog's natural ear placement is important). A neutral dog has a happy, relaxed expression, and a slightly open mouth, may display distance-decreasing behaviors, and may have an aimlessly wagging tail that indicates happiness. In a relaxed and neutral dog, you expect to see a loose body posture, relaxed facial muscles with a neutral expression, and ears held in a natural position. The tail may be wagging gently or held in a neutral position, and the dog’s mouth may be slightly open with a relaxed jaw.

A dog displaying offensive, threatening, or aggressive behavior may stare threateningly with direct eye contact expecting you to look away, bared teeth with lips pulled upward aggressively or tense, closed mouth when not snarling or growling, or an aggressive pucker with larger lips, raised ears, leaned-forward posture indicating they my lunge or nip, and their tail may be wagging or held up stiffly to appear larger. An offensive dog may exhibit a stiff body posture, raised hackles along the back, a tense facial expression and exposed teeth, and ears pinned back or forward in an alert position. The tail may be raised high and stiff, or wagging rapidly in a stiff manner.

A dog displaying defensive, threatening, or aggressive behavior may have wide, round eyes indicating fear or distress, and flattened ears indicating fear. A defensive dog may show signs of fear or anxiety, such as cowering, tucking the tail between the legs, and avoiding direct eye contact. The body may be tense, with the head lowered and ears flattened against the head. The dog may also growl or bark defensively while trying to create distance from the perceived threat.

What Does it All Mean? Vocalizations in Dogs

 

Social, Appeasement, and Threat Vocalizations

Social vocalizations include scattered vocalizations with playful body language. Dogs often growl, whimper, or whine during play, and the Rottweiler breed is known to growl when they’re comfortable. Social vocalizations in dogs include friendly barks, whines, and playful growls, often used during interactions with familiar people or dogs to express positive emotions. If vocalizations are high-pitched, the internal state is often affiliative.

Appeasement vocalizations may include whining or whimpering when stressed or anxious, and the dog expects a positive reaction from their person. Appeasement vocalizations are softer, higher-pitched whines or whimpers signaling submissiveness and a desire to avoid conflict, commonly observed in response to perceived threats or during submissive gestures.

Threat vocalizations include alarm barking when there is a perceived threat, and biting is possible. Suspicion barking is often low and slow. Serious aggressive growling is a definite communication, and when heard the trigger for the growling should be found to prevent the next more serious behavior. Threat vocalizations are deep, low-pitched barks or growls indicating aggression or a defensive stance, used to warn potential threats. If vocalizations are low-pitched, the internal state is often aggressive.

Why Vocalizations Are Important

It is important to recognize the various canine vocalizations because it allows a stronger bond between our dogs and us and allows us to understand our dogs. Recognizing dogs’ vocalizations is important for understanding their emotional states and intentions, and enhancing communication between dogs and humans.

Different vocalizations convey distinct messages, such as social playfulness, appeasement, or threat, allowing us to respond appropriately and prevent potential conflicts or misunderstandings. Understanding vocalizations allows better training, handling, and care, promoting positive interactions and a harmonious relationship.

Context Influences Interpretation

The context of a vocalization matters, and conveys if the dog is being social or potentially dangerous. Barks occur in varied contexts and varied acoustic structures. Dogs’ vocalizations are often internally motivated due to conflicting emotions and are a by-product of domestication.

Mobbing occurs when an animal is in a den and a predator approaches, the animal goes toward and away from the predator making mobbing barks. Other animals may notice and join the mobbing of the predator. The predator loses the benefit of surprise and quiet.

Conflict can occur the other way when a dog wants to be near or approach a visitor or another animal but is constrained from doing so by a leash, fence, or door. Domestication has provided dogs a short flight distance so dogs are often conflicted in their decision to run away or stay to fight. Dogs have also learned to use barking for reward in novel situations.

Two hypotheses exist about interpreting dog vocalizations. One hypothesis suggests dog barks are context-specific and refer to something specific. This hypothesis posits that vocalization can be referential between dogs as well as between humans and dogs.

Barking is selected for communication with humans to help both survive. Morton’s motivation structural rules say that if a vocalization is low pitched, the internal state is aggressive meaning “back off,” while if high pitched there is an affiliative internal state to come closer.

Another hypothesis posits that dogs’ vocalizations are internally motivated due to conflict. This second hypothesis is likely correct, and the one to which I subscribe.

Dog vocalizations vary between contexts, are not context-specific, and are internally motivated often due to conflict.

Interspecific Vs Intraspecific Vocalization

Interspecific vocalizations are vocalizations used for communication with another species. Intraspecific vocalizations are vocalizations used for communications with the same species. A unique feature of the bark compared with other canine vocalizations is that it has both tonal and noisy components at the same time.

The tone of a dog’s voice facilitates interpretation in interspecific and intraspecific vocal communication by conveying emotional nuances and intentions. In interspecific communication with humans, variations in tone indicate emotions such as excitement, fear, or aggression, helping humans interpret the dog’s needs and respond appropriately.

In intraspecific communication among dogs, tone helps establish social hierarchies, express playfulness, convey submission, or give warning signals, facilitating social interactions and maintaining group cohesion.

Paws and People: Unraveling Dog Domestication

 Tame dogs are those who are conditioned or trained to accept human contact and handling without exhibiting fear or aggression. They are accustomed to human presence and even enjoy interacting with people. Tame dogs are friendly and used to people. Tame wolves are not domesticated.

Habituated dogs are those that are accustomed to specific stimuli or environments through repeated exposure. This includes getting used to loud noises, new objects, different types of people, or even dog whistles or punishment. Habituation is gradual exposure to a stimulus that causes less reaction to the stimulus.

Socialized dogs have been exposed to various interactions with other dogs, animals, and humans, learning appropriate behaviors and communication skills within these social and environmental contexts. Early and ongoing socialization for puppies and dogs is critical for a lifetime of appropriate and safe behavior. Socialized dogs are exposed to variety and are comfortable with change.

Domesticated dogs have undergone generations of selective breeding and genetic changes to adapt to living alongside humans. Domesticated dogs exhibit loyalty, biddability, and reduced aggression, making them well-suited for human companions. Domestication takes several generations to occur.

Feral dogs, on the other hand, are domesticated dogs that have reverted to a wild state. They may have escaped human care or been abandoned and have learned to be independent or fearful of humans. Feral dogs are domesticated dogs that have not been in contact with people for a long time and often are not tame.

Stray dogs are domesticated dogs that are currently without a permanent home or human caregiver. They may have been lost or abandoned and are often found living in urban or rural areas, scavenging for food and shelter. Stray dogs have probably been socialized at some point and may or may not interact well with humans.

While tame, habituated, and socialized describe different levels of comfort and interaction with humans and their environment, domesticated dogs have undergone intentional breeding for specific traits conducive to living with humans. Feral and stray dogs, although both domesticated, differ in their current living conditions and degree of independence from human care.

All dogs evolved from wolves. Wolves and dogs share certain similarities including they both chase prey, walk on their toes, have unretractable claws, have dew claws, both tie in reproduction, both are born helpless, blind, and dependent on neonatal and ongoing care, both have a ligament that enables them to keep their nose toward the ground while running.

However a significant difference is that dogs do not have sufficient instincts to survive on their own in the wild. Dogs have been selected for a specific set of social and cognitive abilities that allow them to communicate uniquely with humans. Dogs have jobs ranging from protection, herding, guarding, search and rescue, and police work, to therapy.

Physically, domestic dogs often exhibit reduced skull size, shorter muzzles, floppy ears, and a wider variety of coat colors and patterns compared to wolves. Behaviorally, domestic dogs display increased sociability, reduced flight distance, and increased friendliness towards humans, traits that have been selectively bred over generations.

Wolves typically have larger skulls, longer muzzles, erect ears, and a more uniform coat coloration. They maintain a stronger instinctual fear of humans and tend to be less socialized in human environments. These differences spotlight the significant impact of domestication on both the physical appearance and behavioral characteristics of dogs compared to their wild ancestors, wolves. 

Canine Evolution: Theories of Human-Dog Interaction in Domestication

There are various theories on the domestication of dogs based on scientific research. One commonly held theory, and the one to which I subscribe, is the self-domestication hypothesis which suggests that wolves with more friendly and social traits were naturally selected as they scavenged around human settlements. Over time, these wolves evolved into dogs through a process of natural selection favoring traits like friendliness and reduced flight distance toward humans.

Another theory proposes the commensal scavenger hypothesis, suggesting that wolves initially benefited from scavenging human waste and leftovers, leading to a symbiotic relationship where less fearful and more tolerant wolves were more successful in obtaining food near human settlements. This theory emphasizes the role of scavenging human domestic waste called middens in the early interactions between humans and wolves, eventually leading to domestication.

Another hypothesis posits that wolves and humans formed a mutually beneficial partnership where wolves aided humans in hunting activities. Wolves with cooperative and more friendly tendencies would have been favored and eventually domesticated as they aided in hunting, guarding, and other tasks.

Wolves that guarded human resources, such as food storage or living sites, were more likely to be accepted and eventually domesticated. This theory highlights the role of wolves in providing protection and security to early human settlements, leading to a closer relationship between humans and canines.

The dual domestication theory and the single domestication theory represent two contrasting perspectives. The single domestication theory posits that dogs were domesticated with a single geographic location and time frame. In contrast, the dual domestication theory suggests that dogs were domesticated independently in multiple regions from distinct populations of wolves.

The science is clear that the Eurasian grey wolf is our modern dogs’ common ancestor. Fossil records allow us to track domestication from the DNA of fossilized material. Dogs probably originated in Southeast Asia, 10,000 to 32,000 years ago, with domestication around the world about 15,000 years ago. According to Dr. Charles Berger’s domestication seminar from 2017, distinct dogs were living as far back as 135,000 years ago.

Dmitry Belyaev’s fox experiment which replicated the process of domestication, offers valuable insights into dog domestication. The experiment demonstrated that selecting for tameness and friendliness over several generations resulted in rapid changes not only in behavior but also in physical traits such as floppy ears and curly tails, similar to those seen in domesticated dogs. Selecting for friendliness shaped the behavior and morphology of domesticated animals, providing evidence that dogs underwent a similar process of self-domestication through natural selection for sociability and reduced aggression toward humans.

The discussion between these theories underscores the complexity of dog domestication and the ongoing efforts to unravel the precise origins and processes involved in the evolution of dogs from wolves.

Theory of Domestication

 Brian Hare, like many of us, had a childhood dog that ignited a spark of inquisitiveness into how dogs were domesticated. Dr. Hare followed the Dmitri Belyaev foxes experiment where after only 45 generations, Belyaev’s foxes were domesticated.

I subscribe to Dr. Hare’s theory that dogs have been selected for a specific set of social and cognitive abilities that allow them to communicate with humans uniquely (Hare et al 2002).

Likely, hunter-gatherers would not have the time, patience, or motivation to tame a wolf puppy. More likely, wolves scavenged the leftovers of humans around human encampments, and wolves became acclimated to humans, and thus friendlier toward humans. These tamer, more friendly, proto-dog wolves were likely selected for useful skills such as being an alarm or assisting with hunting.

In the sense that dogs promoted our survival by allowing more efficient hunting, livestock herding and guarding, and personal protection from predators, one could argue that dogs domesticated humans. Certainly we humans have become a better species because of our dogs, for reasons ranging from capitalistic prowess (better livestock, better food, better domiciles) to far-reaching displays of domestication including empathy and friendliness.

Dogs benefit from our evolved large brains, while humans benefit from dogs’ evolved brains that include loyalty, friendliness, and emotional wellness. Humans worry about acquiring and maintaining food, health, and comfortable territory, and share with our dogs to their benefit.

On the other hand, modern dogs, who mostly no longer hunt, herd, or guard, still experience pure emotions and live in the moment. Modern humans with dogs vicariously experience this pureness of emotion through our dogs, and humans benefit.

Humans have evolved brains that benefit dogs while dogs have evolved brains that benefit humans in symbiotic evolution.

I agree with Dr. Hare the most likely idea is that dogs are self-domesticated, in other words, friendly behavior works profoundly well for dogs evolutionarily speaking. Friendlier wolves-turned-proto-dogs would have been more and more friendly, giving them access to human food and other benefits. Dogs likely domesticated themselves. And along with themselves, us, for the better.

An Important Warning

 The critical importance of understanding canine vocalization was recently driven home to me with our foster dog, Pix. When Pix first entered our home as a foster, she was friendly and accepting toward all our other dogs, and toward me.

However when my husband or any other man got close to Pix, she vocalized a low, threatening growl if she was on leash or otherwise unable to run away. Off leash, Pix would not even be in the same room or outdoor space without defensively barking and cowering away from any man.

In this situation, it was critical to understand that Pix’s growling was an important warning signal. By understanding why the growl was happening, Pix was able to rightly express her feeling of fear of men without escalating to the next, potentially more dangerous, behavior.

Once we determined the stimulus that was causing Pix to growl (the presence of a man), we immediately began behavior modification training including desensitization and counterconditioning.

My spouse Chris kept enough distance between himself and Pix so that Pix remained under threshold, still showing quiet and calm behavior, while I provided tiny bits of roasted chicken, one of Pix’s favorite treats.

Pix quickly began to associate that when Chris was anywhere nearby, enjoyable and valuable things happened. Gradually we progressed to Chris walking past Pix with enough distance that Pix remained calm, while Chris gently tossed her favorite chicken treats in her direction on the floor. Over time Chris was able to toss treats gradually closer to Pix as she became more and more comfortable.

Within 23 days of operation “When I see Dad chicken rains from the sky” Pix was nudging under Chris’ hand to ask him to pet her and Chris was able to pat her all over, scratch her ears, and Pix even slept next to him in bed.

This same process worked with other strange men including our pool cleaner, our gardener, and eventually Pix’s new dad when she was adopted successfully into her forever home.

For this great outcome to have happened, it was critical that we understood Pix’s vocalization. It was important to keep both Pix and the people around her safe, and by following through with counterconditioning this situation turned into a happy beginning with Pix being adopted into her forever home.

Dog Body Language

A situation where analyzing a dog’s body language is extremely important happened just last night, as we accepted a new foster dog into our household. In introducing ourselves and our three resident dogs to our new foster, Liz, it was important to understand what her body language was saying about the likelihood of how safe each interaction would be with ourselves and each of our dogs.

We began by starting with Liz in a quiet, open, and securely fenced field where I could introduce myself and observe Liz for several minutes in a neutral setting. Her body language ranged from curious to relaxed.

Based on my initial observations, we brought in our resident female dog to greet Liz in the neutral territory, with leashes attached but dropped to avoid any possible leash frustration or reactivity. We carefully observed Liz’s body language as she greeted our resident female Jackie. Liz and Jackie sniffed each other appropriately and greeted with curved bodies head to tail.

When Liz’s body froze with her tail held high and stiff while standing over Jackie, I was able to redirect her by loose, curving movement of my own and of Jackie’s. It was important to understand that while Liz and Jackie’s bodies were loose and curved, with relaxed facial expressions and slightly open mouths, the introductions were going well and were safe to proceed.

After meeting all three of our resident dogs one at a time and then as a group in the neutral territory, we brought the new foster Liz into our backyard and repeated the process of introducing the resident dogs one at a time in the open space of our back yard. Since that went well, we brought Liz into our home that had been previously prepared by sectioning off the area we want her to spend most of her time initially, and repeated the introductions indoors.

Every step was important for us to analyze each dog’s body language so that we understood that the interactions were safe and friendly for all dogs. For an eventual good adoption outcome for our foster, as well as keeping our resident dogs safe, including our 16-year-old geriatric spaniel, it was critical that these early encounters go smoothly, which they did.

Identifying body language is extremely important in this situation and sets the scene for a good outcome.

Stress and Adoption: How to Make Your New Dog Comfortable

Spoiler alert: the answer is PATIENCE. Newly adopted dogs need at least 90 days to completely settle into their new home, and should be supported by a comfortable, quiet, environment and a predictable routine.

A dog is stressed when first adopted into their new home. Often the new human family is overjoyed and brimming with love, and rightly so. They have been contemplating and planning to acquire a new dog and are eager to welcome their new family member.

Consider the point of view of the dog when being adopted. Often they have already suffered distress from being in a noisy and frightening shelter environment, or the confusion and loss of leaving their familiar foster home. Many newly available-for-adoption dogs are still recovering from the stress of recent medical treatments such as spay/neuter surgery, dirofilarial adulticide injections, or other veterinary issues.

Understanding body language and vocalization is important. Until dogs are comfortable in their new home, watch for dogs displaying displacement behaviors such as yawning or lip licking. Along with the myriad of requirements involved in adopting a new dog, the new family must allow enough time to form a bond with their dog.

Much has been said about the three-days-three-weeks-three-months post-adoption time frames. In my experience, the new dog is only beginning to be comfortable and de-stressed in their new environment within a minimum of 90 days. Often longer in situations concerning high-octane types, dependent "velcro" personalities, or especially puppy mill and other neglect survivors.  

In the first several days of being in their new home, most dogs need more than average quantities of sleep. It’s important to provide a safe zone with a relatively quiet and comfortable resting place. Sufficient exercise, but also sufficient – and safe – sleep is essential. Spending quiet time near the dog helps them. Provide sufficient but low-stress exercise to increase the bond between the new adoptee and their human.

The stress of being a newly adopted dog has positive components as well. Navigating this important milestone in a dog’s life is gratifying with the right amount of patience, planning, and time.

Pro-Pit or Anti-Pit is NOT the Question

Pit bulls are unfairly known for poor behavior, and this is due to a complicated set of reasons ranging from racism to lack of education and misunderstanding.

Being “pro-Pit” or “anti-Pit” is of little value. Attributing poor behavior solely to a specific dog breed like a pit bull is not scientifically accurate. Dog behavior is influenced by a complex interplay of genetics, environment, training, and socialization.

Pit bulls, like any other breed, exhibit a wide range of behaviors depending on individual factors. Generalizations about a breed’s behavior are misleading and contribute to misconceptions.

Certain factors have contributed to the unfair reputation of pit bulls for poor behavior in some contexts. One factor is their history of being bred for dogfighting. High-profile cases including Atlanta Falcons football team quarterback Michael Vick who illegally and abusively housed and trained pit bulls for fighting brought media attention to cruel dogfighting.

Pit bulls’ physical strength and powerful jaws mean that improper handling or lack of socialization and education can lead to severe incidents. It is crucial to emphasize that breed-specific stereotypes are not scientifically validated and should not be used to make blanket assumptions about individual dogs.

That being said, according to Forbes Advisor in April 2024, dog bite claims historically average around 45,000.00 dollars. Homeowner insurance pays for dog bites, so many well-known home insurance companies have strictly banned certain breeds of dogs, including pit bulls. This is unsupported scientifically and is discriminatory and antagonistic to particular communities.

Dog advocates including the American Kennel Club, Best Friends Animal Society, the Humane Society, and others have openly stated that when companies discriminate against dogs they also discriminate against their humans. In a request to the National Association of Insurance Commissioners, the Animal Defense League says “The use of breed lists has a detrimental impact on three groups: uninformed consumers, people of color, and consumers of low or moderate means.”

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention determined that from 1979 to 1998, pit bulls were involved in the most fatal-to-humans dog attacks (Sacks et al, 2000).

Other peer-reviewed research supports that pit bulls bite more frequently and more severely (Essig et al 2019).

The research is likely flawed in many ways that make decisive conclusions difficult. To authoritatively determine if a breed bites more often would require knowing both the number of biting dogs and the total number of dogs in a specific breed. Until dogs undergo several decades of census-gathering as is done with humans, it is impossible to say which breed is more likely to bite.

The solution to behavior problems associated with dog bites surely begins with responsible dog guardianship, along with properly socializing and educating our dogs to be the best members of society that they can be.

Behavioral Assessments, and How They're Used

 Behavior problems are known to be the main reasons why guardians surrender their dogs to shelters (Diesel et al 2010, Gates et al 2018, Wells et al 2000). A study “Using Principles from Applied Behavior Analysis to Address an Undesired Behavior: Functional Analysis and Treatment of Jumping Up in Companion Dogs” published in the journal Animals by Sadovsky et al in 2019 showed that using functional analysis of applied behavior analysis is promising in reducing the undesired behavior of dogs jumping up on people.

Anecdotally, I successfully use behavioral assessments of each respective foster dog in my care. In this situation, I observe the functional relations between the behavior of the foster dog and the corresponding environmental events, which is in effect a behavior analysis. I attempt to solve behavior problems by providing antecedents and/or consequences that change the dog’s behavior so they become happy, comfortable, and well-mannered citizens, prepared for their new permanent home.

To do this, first I define the target behavior of interest by observation and interpretation. For my current foster dog, this includes reducing observable, if mild, dog-to-dog resource guarding. Lizzie will freeze and growl if she is chewing a high-value bone and one of my resident dogs approaches.

I also want to reduce her readily observable jumping up on people for what I interpret as attention-seeking. I identify functional relations between the target behavior (jumping up or resource guarding) and its antecedents and consequences and identify an effective intervention for changing the target behavior.

While Lizzie has been with us for only three days, I immediately put jumping up on extinction (withholding all reinforcers that maintain the behavior such as eye contact, talking to her, or touching while the behavior is displayed) and started differentially reinforcing an incompatible behavior of sitting. Lizzie is quickly learning that to get the attention she desires, sitting is the best and fastest approach and yields a great variety of high-value attention and rewards while she is sitting.

For Lizzie’s mild dog-to-dog resource guarding, I have managed her environment so that there are plenty of resources to go around, including comfortable places to rest, and plenty of interesting (but not actual food) chew items. Actual ingestible, higher-value chews are enjoyed in her crate which also reinforces settling comfortably on her own. I feed Lizzie her meals alone in her crate in a separate room and immediately remove all food dishes when feeding is over.

I am implementing a conditioned response when a resident dog approaches Lizzie, she watches me feed them a treat and then receives a treat herself. This is rapidly becoming a conditioned response that when another dog approaches and Lizzie calmly watches them eat a treat, that is a reliable predictor that Lizzie also gets a treat. Instead of “Oh no here comes another dog I must guard what’s mine” the response is “Yay! Another dog is here so that means I get lamb lung, my favorite!”

Eventually this same counter conditioning method will be used while Lizzie has her high-value bone. When other dogs are near, she already has a positive response to their approach, and valuable outcomes continue while close to other dogs. Resource guarding is extinguished because it is never practiced so therefore is never reinforced. Proximity to other dogs in the presence of valuable food items while maintaining calm behavior is reinforced, thus increasing appropriate behavior in the presence of food and other dogs.

Methods to Increase the Human-Dog Bond, And Why It’s Important

A strong bond between a dog and their human promotes a harmonious and fulfilling relationship. Methods based on scientific research and behavioral understanding are used to increase the human-dog bond.

Positive reinforcement techniques using treats, praise, and play rewards for desired behaviors encourage trust and strengthen the bond. Positive reinforcement builds a positive association between the handler and the dog, making training sessions enjoyable and effective.

Regular exercise and playtime such as walks, runs, or interactive games like fetch or tug provide physical stimulation and foster a sense of companionship and mutual enjoyment. Dogs bond with their guardians through shared experiences and quality time spent together.

Clear and consistent communication through verbal cues, hand signals, and body language all help dogs understand expectations and build trust. Consistency in education and routine establishes a reliable and predictable environment for the dog, strengthening the bond based on mutual understanding. This is especially critical when adopting a new dog.

Socializing dogs to various environments, people, and other animals from a young age and throughout their lives helps them develop confidence, adaptability, and social skills. Positive social experiences create positive associations with their guardian as a source of safety and security, enhancing the bond.

Participating in activities or dog sports that promote bonding, such as grooming sessions, relaxation time, or games, deepens the emotional connection between the dog and their guardian. These activities promote relaxation, reduce stress, and reinforce the bond through shared experiences.

Enhancing the human-dog bond is important because a strong bond improves communication and understanding, leading to better biddability, cooperation, and overall desired behavior. This bond is especially crucial during training as dogs are more responsive to handlers they trust and with whom they feel connected.

A strong bond adds to the dog's well-being and mental health. Dogs are social animals that thrive on companionship and positive interactions. A close bond with their handler provides emotional support, reduces anxiety and stress, and promotes security and belonging.

A robust human-dog bond benefits the person as well. Science shows that interacting with dogs reduces stress, lowers blood pressure, and improves mood. The companionship and unconditional love offered by dogs is hard to express in words but has a significant positive effect on human mental and emotional health.

Methods that increase the human-dog bond are important for fostering a positive relationship based on trust, communication, and mutual well-being. This bond benefits both the dog and the owner, leading to a happier, healthier, and more fulfilling companionship.

The Dog-Human Relationship

Much time and effort are given to understanding the bond we share with dogs. It is profound and grows deeper with time, investigation, and understanding.

Those who love dogs get it: like the proverbial question about climbing Mount Everest, what is the use? If you have to ask, you just don't understand. But for those of us who do, "because it's there" is sufficient.

While scientific, physiologic, medical, psychological, and other evaluations of our relationship with dogs are salient, even in the absence of such research, dogs remain our best friends. It's wonderful, however, to be able to study them.

Scholarly study, while important, never replaces solid, hands-on experience. Especially when it comes to understanding and gaining observational skills of dog body language. Dogs are the best teachers. I'm grateful to be a student of the dog and look forward to continued learning.

Meet Lizzie

Our newest BCSave foster, Lizzie, is one of the happiest pups I've known. Part border collie. Maybe part Aussie? Maybe part guardian-type? 100% lovable. 

Lizzie was surrendered to the Pearl River County SPCA in Picayune, Mississippi with three un-weaned puppies in tow. Heartworm positive and still intact, Lizzie has a few important medical milestones to meet and will then be ready to find her permanent family.

Lizzie's stats:

• ~Three years old

• 43 pounds

• Border collie mix

• Incredibly sweet temperament, with a great off-switch, and settles well

• Good with people and dogs

• Medium energy level

• Food-motivated for R+ learning

• Loves water!

• Crate-trained and potty-trained

Apply today to adopt this delightful dog through BCSave.

Lizzie playing in the park:

Thoughts on Punishment as Related to Scholarly Study

The Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers uses the least intrusive and minimally aversive procedure to succeed in training or changing behavior. It is called LIMA, or "Least Intrusive, Minimally Aversive."

Why not, as a body of leaders in behavior, instead of striving for the least intrusive, minimally aversive behavior intervention, why not strive for the most reinforcing, optimally appetitive behavior intervention? 

I realize the ask is big. We must rely on available education, intelligence, and hopefully our desire for the best possible relationship with our dogs.

I want to be honest about the fact that I use punishment and know what I am doing, rather than just hoping I always use reinforcement. I also want to recognize when I am using an aversive, not just with dogs but with human students and colleagues, as I am about to do here by voicing my disapproval (a positive punishment [P+] reprimand) of the target behavior defined as "using fear or pain."

Ironic, because I am engaging in the P+ of trying to reduce the frequency of using P+ by voicing my disapproval of P+. I am intentionally trying to be self-aware, civil, thoughtful, and scholarly in tone as I do so.

In general I agree with Dr. Ian Dunbar's teachings, especially that rewards are always preferred and appropriate behavior must always be taught to the dog and available to produce to avoid punishment. Dr. Ian Dunbar says repeating punishment of any kind beyond three repetitions is ABUSE. This seems a very good principle.

In general I disagree with Steve White's "rules" because it's unfair to do something (especially punishment) the dog does not expect. I will also thoughtfully note the multiple errors in spelling ("loosing" in rule three) and grammar (ending a sentence in a preposition in rule four) which do not inspire scholarly confidence.

We learn by scholarly study and in real-life practice, that for punishment to even be effective, it must be immediate and certain. Unless one is 100% able to deliver the punishment 100% of the time the target behavior occurs, then don't bother. Otherwise it becomes an intermittent reinforcer, thus strengthening the very behavior we wish to diminish!

Considered in light of scholarly study, this makes me re-examine my use of punishment. If indeed I cannot follow through with delivering the punishment every single time and not repeating beyond three repetitions, then I must strongly consider stopping the use of that particular punishment, ever. No matter how un-painful or fear-free I consider it to be.

See Dr. Ian Dunbar's eighth rule of punishment and his idea that punishment beyond three repetitions is abuse. If an educated, respected, well-known, and scientifically sound expert scholar says it's abuse, it probably is.

I strive to only use punishment that is not painful and not scary but is effective. However unless I can honestly apply it 100% of the time, and repeat it less than three times, I will consider not using punishment for that behavior.

Examples of my use of punishment and aversives follow:

Positive punishment: physically preventing my dog from performing a behavior that will hurt him by physically grabbing him (providing a consequence [a physical grab] that decreases the frequency of the target behavior [hurting himself, say getting run over by a tractor if he cannot hear me]). P+ is to be used only at the utmost end of need.

Negative punishment: crossing my arms and looking up if a dog tries to jump up on me when the dog's guardian does not want the dog to jump up on people (removing the reinforcer [my attention] to reduce the frequency of the behavior [jumping up]).

Negative reinforcement: walking away from my dog if he gets excited while in the crate while I approach to release him from the crate (providing aversive consequences [I walk away, something my dog will work to avoid] to maintain or increase the behavior [Gunner stays quietly lying down in his crate until released]).

Positive reinforcement: where I choose to spend most of my efforts.

For my part, I do not want to incur the heavy responsibility, as Sue Alexander rightly puts it in her Applied Behavior Analysis course, of using pain to teach a dog. 

I prefer to rely on the four quadrants of reinforcement and punishment (without fear or pain), as well as my intelligence, experience, and if necessary consulting a colleague whose opinion matters, to develop a plan to attain the behavior I desire that's in the best interest of the dog and our relationship.

If we find ourselves in a situation where we are considering using fear or pain, we must re-examine what we know, including what is known by respected and scientifically sound experts. When necessary, reach out to a colleague or expert peer for the appropriate help. 

Yes, even for fence jumping, life-saving off-leash recall, harming chickens, and the like. Modern science supports positive reinforcement and optimally appetitive behavior intervention.

Given enough thought, effort, and the right brain power, there is almost always a better alternative than using fear or pain.

Our foster dog Meggie, who in a past life endured too much fear and pain. Now she is benefitting from a positive reinforcement education.

Counterconditioning: A Crash Course

Counterconditioning by Playing

the Look At That Game 

Keep your dog below threshold, still showing quiet and calm behavior, while you teach your dog to look at the exciting or fearful stimulus, then repeatedly reward them for remaining calm while just in the presence of the trigger.

Have lots of high-value rewards your dog loves, like pea-sized bits of hot dog or chicken. Be sure you are at a distance and time where you control how close or far your dog is from the trigger. 

Always keep your dog under threshold (showing quiet and calm behavior), so they notice the trigger without going over threshold. Sometimes this means starting at a very far distance from the trigger. 

If your dog isn't able to see the trigger at any distance without going over threshold, that's ok. Practice first at home with a neutral target (anything that they do not react to) so that they learn the game before being in the presence of the trigger. 

As soon as your dog glances at the trigger, click or say "Yes!" while your dog looks at the trigger to mark that behavior and give them a delicious treat. After your dog progresses to the point they are offering a glance toward the trigger, add the verbal cue "Look!" 

Your dog quickly starts to look at the scary or stimulating trigger when you give the "Look!" cue and then eagerly turns to you in anticipation of a tasty tidbit (which you always provide!). 

Continue rewarding their bravery, and keep sessions short by using less than five to 10 repetitions at a time. Give your dog frequent re-set breaks and make each session brief and positive. Keep practicing this game until your dog is calmly looking at the trigger and then back at you in anticipation of the reward. 

Gradually and incrementally decrease the distance to the trigger over time. Always keep enough distance so that your dog remains under threshold. 

The end goal is a conditioned emotional response so that your dog remains calm when they see the trigger. Eventually the dog glances at the trigger and looks back at you, then you click and treat while the dog looks at your face. 

Your dog now has a calm conditioned response while in the presence of what used to be their trigger. 

What Is Counterconditioning

Anyway?

Counterconditioning literally means opposite learning. It's the process of modifying behavior through a new association with a stimulus of an opposite emotional affect. 

When a dog feels fear, aggression, or excitement about a particular stimulus, the dog is counterconditioned (learns the opposite emotion) to feel comfort, friendliness, or calm toward the same stimulus.

A classic example is the fear of men. Many dogs, for a multitude of reasons (sometimes the reason is unknown due to an event that occurred in the dog's past, sometimes the reason is obvious; counterconditioning works either way) have a fear of men.

Pix was successfully counterconditioned from fearing her new dad to loving him

The dog has learned to feel fear when in the presence of men. In counterconditioning, the dog learns the opposite feeling when in the presence of men: the dog learns to feel comfortable.

Counterconditioning is achieved by keeping enough distance between the dog and the trigger (in this case a strange man) so that the dog stays under threshold, or still showing quiet and calm behavior, while providing things the dog finds enjoyable and valuable while in the presence of the trigger. 

How Counterconditioning Works

Anytime the dog is anywhere in the presence of the trigger and is still under threshold, toss your dog treats they find highly valuable. Often boiled chicken or any other food your dog finds delicious works well as a reward. 

Over time and several repetitions, the dog eventually learns to associate the wonderful feeling that good things happen whenever they're in the presence of strange men. 

At first the dog only receives treats from the trusted handler. Remain in this phase for however long it takes for the dog to remain calm within visual distance of the trigger. 

Gradually progress from the dog receiving treats tossed from the trusted handler to the man tossing food treats in the dog's direction, at first from a distance while walking calmly past the dog. Over time as the dog becomes more comfortable the man tosses treats gradually closer to the dog. 

Be sure the dog stays under threshold. Remember the dog does not have to interact with, be petted by, or do anything with the man. 

The dog does not have to sit or perform any specific behavior. The only criteria is that the dog stays calm while in visible distance of the trigger, and is rewarded for remaining calm. 

This process worked well with our foster dog Pix.

Pix could not even be in the same room with my spouse Chris when we first got her without fearfully growling at Chris and cowering away. Within 23 days of operation "When I See Dad Chicken Rains From The Sky" (counterconditioning) Pix was nudging under Chris' hand to ask him to pet her and Chris was able to pat her all over, scratch her ears, and Pix even slept next to him in bed.

This same process worked with other strange men including our pool cleaner, our gardener, and eventually Pix's new dad when she was adopted successfully into her forever home. 

Pix in the mid-phase of counterconditioning. She voluntarily approached Chris and lay at his side. When Dad's around, wonderful things happen!

Pearls:

• Keep enough distance so your dog remains calm while rewarding them for noticing the trigger.

•  Practice with a neutral target at home if needed before introducing the trigger.

• Click or say "Yes!" and reward them when your dog glances at the trigger, then add the verbal cue "Look!"

• Reward bravery and keep sessions short and positive.

• Provide frequent breaks and maintain positivity while teaching.

• Gradually decrease the distance to the trigger while being sure your dog is far enough away to remain calm.

• A positive emotional response where your dog remains calm in the presence of the trigger is built with conditioned positive feelings associated with what used to be the trigger.

Questions? Comment here, I'm happy to offer suggestions to get you started teaching your dog to feel better about their triggers. 

First Things First

Yay! You've Adopted a Rescue!

You just adopted a border collie. So let's do the things: Walks! Hikes! Frisbee! Picnics! Even dog sports, right?

Wrong. Or rather, not just yet. Your newly adopted rescue dog needs time, typically about three months but sometimes even longer with high-intensity herders. 

Time to fully decompress, learn the house rules, continue counter-conditioning, form positive emotional responses to everything new around them, and begin the bonding process with you, their new family. 

Two rescue dogs at different waypoints in their respective journeys

Seven Tips to Improve Your Odds

Here are seven tips to improve your odds before adopting a dog that needs remedial socialization (adapted from Pat Miller's Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life):

1. Have a solid understanding of counter-conditioning, desensitization, and conditioning positive emotional responses. Make a strong commitment to practice these with them every single day. 

2. Read Do Over Dogs by Pat Miller, The Cautious Canine by Patricia McConnell, Help For Your Fearful Dog by Nicole Wilde, and Dogs Are From Neptune by Jean Donaldson. Acquire solid training manuals like Excel-erated Learning by Pamela Reid and Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar.

3. Be prepared to assertively protect your dog from unwanted advances by well-meaning strangers. Do not allow people or their dogs to interact with or approach your dog until your dog is well-socialized enough to tolerate interaction and approaching.

4. Know that love is not enough. Many well-meaning adopters believe that giving a psychologically neglected pup a home filled with love is enough to "fix" the problem. Don't fool yourself. Love is an important part of the equation, but it takes a lot of work too.

5. Be prepared for heartache. Some under-socialized dogs -- most likely those who are genetically sound -- do respond well to remedial socialization and turn into reasonably well-socialized companions. Others don't. If you don't succeed in enhancing your dog's social skills, are you prepared to live with a fearful dog who might be at risk for snapping -- you, visitors, children? 

6. Think long and hard before opening your heart to a do-over-dog that has unusual behavioral needs, high drive, or rehabbing. If you fail them, they may not get another chance.

7. Remember there are gradations of energy levels, drive, and personalities among rescue dogs. You do as much of a good thing by adopting a dog with small issues as you do one with large challenges. Both dogs are in desperate need of a human to call their own, one who won't give up easily on them, and one who will at the right point in their lives, whether sooner or later, be there to give them a gentle goodbye.

Allow Time To Establish Safety and Comfort

Modern, scientific, and common sense dog training rejects any use of compulsion or aversive tools. However from Applied Dog Behavior and Training Volume Three by Steven Lindsay, we still know that "loss of safety and comfort mediates escape behavior and defensive aggression." A decrease in reward promotes increased arousal, scanning, and vigilance, whereas reward-based training using positive reinforcement intensifies attention and interest, promoting fearless seeking and exploratory activities. 

Any newly adopted dog in the first days and weeks surely experiences feelings of loss of safety and comfort, at least early on. Allowing time for feelings of increased safety and comfort to be established, combined with ongoing positive counter-conditioning to achieve positive conditioned emotional responses sets up our dogs for success in their new home. 

Reach out to me if you need ideas on implementing counter-conditioning and creating positive conditioned emotional responses. As a rescue volunteer, I want every dog to find the perfect fit.

It's okay to accept your dog for who they are. Pat Miller says like a good marriage, the best dog guardians enter into a relationship with expectations about their new canine partners. If the journey reveals a different path, they adjust accordingly and still fulfill the social contract they made to love them "until death do us part." 

These are humans who know how to love their dogs. Every dog should be blessed with at least one, for the rest of their life.  

The author and her now right-hand dog, once a repeat rescue that boomeranged into her life

Pearls:

The TOP TWO ideas to implement when adopting a dog:

• Patience. Allow enough quiet, in-home, one-on-one bonding time, starting with a minimum of three months, for your new dog to decompress, learn the house rules, and continue learning positive conditioned emotional responses.

• Positive reinforcement. Use counterconditioning, desensitization, and simple reward-based training games to establish feelings of safety and comfort for your new dog.

Treibball with Jackie: Five Successful Pens

Jackie, as with all things, is very gentle with her sheep. But she is getting good practice gathering and penning during treibball.

Pearls:

• The handler keeps her back centered toward the goal so the dog is directed by your body language to herd the correct direction toward the pen. Always pay the dog when they are oriented directly toward the pen.

• Homework includes starting down with distance. Add the cue of the handler's arm held straight up above their head.

Jackie making successful gathers and pens:

Practice, practice, practice!

Hubris

 https://www.facebook.com/crystal.g.howse/posts/pfbid0X8M8DJ6mwc3yGYqfySUgk2JM16iZiVeg7DTnYqqrVz6we3Rbnu8CnCbQ7rSyqfaQl

From a public social media post concerning online grumblings about perceived barriers to adopting dogs from rescue, and my rebuttal:

Crystal G. Howse

orSenoptsd b0288a0MFemhh3:a4c0u66ta6g 2m r2cy3165 r1109h1Pua  · 

"Many of you have seen that I have a Saint Bernard puppy now. The dog of my dreams that I have wanted since I was a toddler. Im going to start posting pictures of her shamelessly because she is the most precious potato! Here's what I have to say about her:

I bought my dog.

The moment I bought my dog, I hated myself for it and initially felt like I owed myself, and everyone I work with in rescue an explanation.

Barriers to entry is something we talk about in my program at MSU. Barriers to entry, in my job's sense, regard what makes it to where a student can't get into college.

Some of those barriers are - low socioeconomic status, first Gen students who don't have guidance from their parents, lack of access to resources like a vehicle, meal plan, residence hall, etc.

Well now let's talk about barriers to entry for animal adoption....

I bought my dog....that seems, to me as a rescuer, like a horrible thing to say

She is my dream dog. I am going to love and cherish her until the day she leaves me. But, that being said; I have been trying to ADOPT a Saint Bernard for several years now. I have been following Saint Bernard Rescue pages on Facebook. I have been looking on Petfinder at adoptions only. I have been messaging rescues and sending in applications. I have looked at Saint Bernards to rescue all the way from puppies to seniors. I didn't care what age, background, or area the dog came from. I just wanted to rescue one. Adopt don't shop right?

After being denied by every single rescue that I have reached out to because of (what I consider) superficial reasons, I bought my dog.

I have sent my adoption resume, WITH REFERENCES, to at least 7 Saint Bernard rescues, stating that I have been HEAVILY involved in rescue for 10+ years now, have a fenced in yard, have a home where the dog will be indoors almost always - aside from potty breaks, walks, adventures, and excursions. I have submitted that I've done my research on the breed, have never surrendered one of my pets to a shelter, would not surrender this pet to a shelter and would give back to the rescue IF I HAD to for some reason.

....But I wasn't good enough according to their standards. So I bought this dog of mine that is my dream dog. I don't think I would ever "buy" a dog again, now that I've gotten my dream puppy. But a conversation is seriously to be had about barriers to adoption.

If I can't adopt a dog with my rescue background, my animal science education, my dedication to animal welfare, my dedication to a pitbull that I owned and refused to give up, and HUNTED breed friendly housing for, for 3 different moves, my keeping all of my animals for 3+ moves and loving them unconditionally. My proof of annual vet care AND THEN SOME to all my babies. Despite the size of my yard, my house, or my free time, .... we have a problem in the adoption world.

We need to do better. For the animals."

[sic]

Animal Accolade's response:

Barriers to adoption may (or may not) be high, based on anecdotal stories like this one, and the usual pile on of "this one time" that follows. But based on true, quantifiable statistics (which I'll reference below), too many dogs are neglected, abandoned, ever find permanent homes, or worse, in the US.

So yes, rescue personnel err on the side of caution, but please understand it is from a need of protection for the dogs. If one is denied seven times from reputable, trustworthy rescues, perhaps one should search thyself. Never having purchased a dog, I have instead had good luck adopting from breed rescue.

For rescue personnel it's always about the dogs' well-being, never about the feelings of the human, except to the extent that a good match is made into a promising, stable, and appropriate long-term home.

Presumably all the Saint Bernard dogs from this story were adopted into long-term, appropriate homes, so that should be a win for all concerned. It's all about the dogs' security, in the absence of human hubris that landed them in rescue in the first place.

Purchase a dog for all the right reasons if you see fit. But please be fair and open-minded toward rescue by avoiding openly denigrating rescue, who are volunteers doing the best we can with extremely limited resources, "for the animals."

On this we agree: we certainly "have a problem in the adoption world." A sad 2.7 million problems every year.

Real, quantifiable statistics:

1. Only 1 out of every 10 dogs born will find a permanent home.[1]
2. The main reasons animals are in shelters: owners give them up, or animal control finds them on the street.[2]
3. Each year, approximately 2.7 million dogs and cats are killed every year because shelters are too full and there aren’t enough adoptive homes. Act as a publicist for your local shelter so pets can find homes. Sign up for Shelter Pet PR.[3]
4. Approximately 7.6 million companion animals enter animal shelters nationwide every year. Of those, approximately 3.9 million are dogs and 3.4 million are cats.[4]
5. According to the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy (NCPPSP), less than 2% of cats and only 15 to 20% of dogs are returned to their owners.[5]
6. 25% of dogs that enter local shelters are purebred.[6]
7. About twice as many animals enter shelters as strays compared to the number that are relinquished by their owners.[7]
8. It’s impossible to determine how many stray dogs and cats live in the United States. Estimates for cats alone range up to 70 million.[8]
9. Only 10% of the animals received by shelters have been spayed or neutered. Overpopulation, due to owners letting their pets accidentally or intentionally reproduce, sees millions of these “excess” animals killed annually.[9]
10. Many strays are lost pets that were not kept properly indoors or provided with identification.[10]
11. According to The Humane Society, there are about 3,500 brick-and-mortar animal shelters in the US and 10,000 rescue groups and animal sanctuaries in North America.[11]

---

1. The Mosby Foundation. "Truth of what happens to shelter animals everyday." Web Accessed February 23, 2015. ↩︎

2. Towell, Lisa. "Why People Abandon Animals." PETA Prime, 2010. Web Accessed February 23, 2015. ↩︎

3. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. "Pet Statistics." Web Accessed February 26, 2015. ↩︎

4. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. "Pet Statistics." Web Accessed February 26, 2015. ↩︎

5. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. "Pet Statistics." Web Accessed February 26, 2015. ↩︎

6. The Humane Society of the United States. "U.S. Pet Ownership and Shelter Population Estimates." 2012 & 2013. Web Accessed February 23, 2015. ↩︎

7. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. "Pet Statistics." Web Accessed February 26, 2015. ↩︎

8. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. "Pet Statistics." Web Accessed February 26, 2015. ↩︎

9. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. "Pet Statistics." Web Accessed February 26, 2015. ↩︎

10. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. "Pet Statistics." Web Accessed February 26, 2015. ↩︎

11. The Humane Society. "Pets by the numbers." Web Accessed February 20, 2019. ↩︎

For my part, I wish we could all agree that rescues aren't the problem, and the few good, ethical, responsible breeders aren't the problem. The dog abandonment (and worse) crisis we face is a multi-faceted problem. The solution surely begins with being a responsible guardian for the animals in our care.