First Night and Day

A rescue dog’s many transitions leading up to landing in their permanent forever home can be stressful, confusing, and mentally and physically challenging.  After being picked up as a stray and transferred from a Louisiana rescue into a Texas rescue foster home, Jackie proceeded from her initial temporary foster into her foster mom and dad’s home near Fort Worth.  She had recently undergone spay surgery and heartworm treatment, and had to be on strict activity restriction for three months. Now she was ready to meet us, her new family, and make yet another huge transition.

With all of that in mind, we wanted to make the passage for Jackie into her new home as smooth as possible. The plan I’m following is to stay as relatively quiet and close to home as possible the first several days, establishing a consistent routine of mealtimes, walk, and play with just Jackie’s new immediate family.  We’ve purposely gone for a few small strolls during the day, avoiding interacting with any neighborhood dogs or people outside of Jackie’s new immediate family.  

Jackie’s foster mom provided me with her current food and I will follow that diet for a week before slowly beginning transitioning her to the new diet.  I’ve kept Jackie on her previous diet in order to avoid any tummy upset or other issues. Since her foster family fed Jackie in her crate, we have continued that routine for her.

I was careful from the moment Jackie arrived onward to take her to the appropriate “bathroom” in the backyard and reinforced her with lavish praise and high value treats each time she went potty.  This means taking her out every hour or so especially at first, and limiting her access in the house until she knows exactly where the “bathroom” is (and by default is NOT in an unused room, closet, or upstairs where we hang out much less often). A dog that is in a new environment has to be educated properly where the facilities are and what the house rules will be. For a new rescue, even one that has been previously very well house trained like Jackie, it’s best to follow the potty training protocol much the same as you would for a new puppy for at least the first several days until the new dog understands the new routines.

Jackie’s first night we established her in her own crate equipped with an individual water dish that clamps to the bars of her crate and a comfortable bed in our bedroom, and were deliberate in keeping our existing dogs out of her space.  After another stroll and a running play romp, we were ready to wind down for the evening.  I provided a couple long lasting chew toys as well as a kong stuffed with some yummy freeze dried lamb treats and peanut butter.  Licking is a soothing act for a dog, and giving her something interesting like a stuffed kong in her crate helps to build value for being in the crate as well as helps her to settle in comfortably.

We like these Omlet Fido Studio crates with Brindle orthopedic memory foam beds with waterproof and washable removable covers. The dogs are comfortable inside and they make a low credenza when placed side by side, or can be used as a nightstand or sofa end table:

We made sure to have multiple comfortable beds around the house; the dogs love these plush donut beds and the Orvis tempurpedic bed in the living room.

Gunner is sweet to share his bed with new sister.

Pearls for early success with a new dog:

• Keep schedules simple and low-key the first few days a new dog is adopted
• Make potty training and establishing the basic house rules a priority, preventing access to remote, less-used areas of the home
• Crates, ex pen panels, and baby gates come in handy to control the amount of living space the new dog can access
• Stuffed kongs or other hollow toys are excellent to reinforce good behavior in a crate, and licking peanut butter or other soft treat has a relaxing effect for dogs

Meet and Greet

The day arrived for us to meet Jackie for the first time!  In introducing a new adoptee to the existing family members, I wanted to be careful and methodical in how we did the introductions to insure the best possible outcome.  Jackie’s foster mom was an excellent resource in relaying what Jackie’s temperament is like, and what to expect with humans and other animals.  

In order to meet on neutral territory, we arranged for Jackie’s foster mom and dad to connect with us at a securely fenced, quiet park next door to our home.  We gave Jackie’s foster family a few moments to let Jackie stretch her legs, relieve herself, and have a drink after her car trip.  Meeting at the park without our current pups allowed my spouse Chris and me to say our initial greetings to both Jackie and her family, and to meet Jackie without the added element of other dogs present. 

After the humans and Jackie all had some initial time to greet everyone at the secluded park, Chris and I went to get our current two dogs at home.  This way Rosco and Gunner thought we were just going for another every day stroll to the neighborhood park, where there is occasionally a new neighbor and their dog at the park so it is not unusual for our dogs to meet a new dog there.  All three dogs had plenty of room to maneuver, pee, sniff, and sniff each other’s pee (how dogs interpret lots of information about each other), all with keeping a dropped or loose leash since we were in a large securely fenced area.  

Reader it went better than I had even hoped. Jackie was extremely sweet and friendly with Rosco and Gunner, and they seemed very interested in getting to know her. Meanwhile, following the pre-arranged plan, Jackie’s foster mom and dad slipped away nonchalantly to go have dinner together at a nearby restaurant, and give us time to start the bonding process with Jackie.  

From the park we went on a stroll with all three dogs on leash and ended up back at our home. Jackie and I went into our securely fenced backyard first, while Chris stayed up in the front yard with our two resident dogs.  I allowed Jackie to sniff and explore her new backyard, and then Chris came in later with Rosco and Gunner while Jackie was already inside the yard. We were able to drop the leashes and hang out for a long while in our yard to see how everyone would react in a slightly more confined space.  Chris and I have a covered patio so once we established the meeting was continuing well we sat down together to have a cold drink (it IS summer in Texas y’all— it’s HOT!) and continued to closely monitor the dogs as they got to know each other.  

Since everything was progressing well outside, I brought Jackie inside to discover her new surroundings on her own with me, and Chris stayed outside with Rosco and Gunner.  Previously I had strategically placed ex pen gates and closed doors so that Jackie would only have a limited portion of our home to explore, until such time as I’m comfortable she has learned some basic guidelines, and especially a good recall to me which of course will take some time to establish.  

After Jackie had some time to discover her new indoor surroundings, Chris brought in Rosco and Gunner. Bringing the resident dogs in after the new dog was already inside decreased the stress of the situation and made it more likely to diminish territorial ideas.  It worked well and so far everyone has been getting along brilliantly. 

The outlined plan for mixing the current resident dogs with the new adoptee worked smoothly, and it is a method I have used with success in the past as well.  

Jackie’s foster mom and dad re-joined us at our home to review Jackie’s feeding schedule and her ongoing heartworm, intestinal parasite, flea and tick preventative. We celebrated together in our kitchen over tres leches cake and a champagne toast in honor of Jackie’s new transition. Now that the introductions have been made, we are looking forward to making Jackie’s first night and next several days as comfortable as possible.

Jackie and Gunner on Gotcha Day: Gunner thinks she’s pretty cool-

Rosco and Jackie on Gotcha Day: Rosco loves her, but has never been particularly fond of sharing resources!

Pearls when introducing a new dog into an established single or multi-dog home:

• Follow a previously confirmed plan
• Have the dogs meet on neutral territory first, preferably in a securely fenced area where leashes can be dropped or at a minimum all leashes kept slack (straining against a tight leash can cause reactivity, lunging, or other unhelpful behaviors)
• For multi-dog households, it can be helpful to meet one at a time instead of all in a large group at once
• Allow dogs to organically approach one another; calm sideways sniff greetings, moving loosely (not stiffly), sniffing each other’s pee, all help to keep the process tranquil
• Proceed gradually from more open spaces to smaller spaces, and avoid congregating at trigger areas like gates or doors
• Be ready to separate dogs if a skirmish breaks out (a large but lightweight board such as a kitchen cutting board or a large solid placemat can be on hand to place between two dogs in the event you need to quickly separate them, but always stay calm and methodical— no shouting)
• Keep the leashes attached to each individual dog for emergency control but either drop the leash or keep slack in the leash
• When introducing the new dog on home territory, allow the new dog to be in the environment first, and then bring in the resident dogs, one at a time if necessary

Edited to add: with the surge in demand for dog supplies (and supplies in general), the third Omlet Fido Studio crate for Jackie is on back order.  We’ve rummaged out of the garage Prissy’s original crate from years ago.  I love the wire crates for their ease of use; they collapse down to the size of the bottom tray for travel or storage. Wire crates are the best for ventilation since they have no solid sides or top. With a blanket folded on top and a Brindle brand orthopedic bed with a removable water proof sheepskin cover, this Top Paw crate is being used with success:

Rosco is modeling Jackie’s crate

This exercise pen comes in handy to control access from the hallway and stairs.  The ex pen is a stand-alone and has a built in gate should we need it, but we just easily move the panel to walk through:

Backstory, Murky at Best

When Jackie’s foster at Border Collie Save and Rescue reached out to offer more information about Jackie, one of my top questions was a desire to know more of Jackie’s story.  

Little is known, but what we do know for sure is that Jackie was picked up as a stray in rural Mississippi and transferred to a rescue called Kilgore Aussie Rescue in Denham Spring, Louisiana.  From there the boots on the ground rescue network sprang to action to place Jackie into a breed rescue in Texas, Border Collie Save based in Fort Worth.  Skinny, dirty, and with hygromas (thick capsule of fibrous tissue sores developed from repeated trauma to an area due to lying on cement or other hard surfaces) on both elbows, Jackie was also (of course!) heart worm positive, and still intact. The intake veterinarian estimated her age at three years old, and the rescue recorded her date of birth as March 25, 2018, so that’ll be her “happy birthday” date!  

Views on spaying and neutering have changed in the veterinary medical field in recent years, and I admit my perspective on de-sexing dogs is evolving slowly.  Probably a conversation for a different post (or an entire blog for that matter), I will just leave it at I understand for overpopulation-control sake Jackie was spayed very early on intake into rescue, and though I will never know the fate of her previous puppies, or how many litters she had, her little body shows the definite signs of having had puppies.  

It is regrettable if Jackie’s puppies were unwanted and/or not the highest level of health expectancy, which is probable.  For the sake of her long term health however, I’m glad she was a fully grown three year old adult when she was spayed on March 26, 2021. Fortunately I do have her spay record, and it was a traditional spay so unfortunately she had both her ovaries and uterus removed, rather than a partial spay where she could have kept her ovaries, thereby gaining further long term health benefits.  Again, a topic for another discussion, but I’m grateful that she was an adult when she was spayed, and certainly understand the decision to spay a dog of unknown background that had already contributed (most likely) to overpopulation.

Jackie underwent a series of three adulticide heart worm treatment injections, her first on June 9, 2021 and her final injection July 5, 2021.  This treatment was supported with Iverhart heart worm preventative, doxycycline antibiotic, gabapentin pain medication, and prednisone anti inflammatories. Luckily her foster mom reported Jackie had no coughing or hacking, and all indications point to a low heart worm load. At her foster family’s Jackie had to follow the familiar several months of strict confinement, and was released back to full activity with no restrictions August 5, 2021.  

My readers are not the ones who need to hear this but I am nevertheless compelled to say: please prevent unwanted/unhealthy/unplanned/inappropriate litters, and please maintain life-long monthly heart worm prevention to easily deter what becomes a potentially dangerous, uncomfortable, difficult and completely preventable situation of having to undergo heart worm treatment.  

Freshly spayed, newly released back into full activity after heartworm lockdown, Jackie is a new woman and ready to give up her days as a rural mom and fully ready to bloom into her next adventure!

The first intake photo of Jackie transferring to Border Collie Save as a recent stray, heart worm positive and still intact, looking and feeling uncertain:

I may never know the owner of the hand in this photo, but can I just shout heartfelt, genuine, dump truck loads of thanks and gratefulness to the cadre of rescue volunteers who tirelessly work to transform lives by helping otherwise desperate dogs

The take away “pearls” of wisdom I’ve considered today:

• Ideas about de sexing (spaying and neutering) dogs are evolving, but ending suffering and unwanted/unhealthy puppies is paramount
• Heartworm disease in dogs is easily preventable and while curable it is costly, difficult, and potentially dangerous to treat, and can have lifelong health detriments later.  All dogs should be kept on heartworm prevention
• A debt of gratitude is owed to the special folks who work to help, rehabilitate, and re-home otherwise discarded and neglected (or worse) dogs
• Thank a rescue volunteer as often as you have opportunity to do so, and consider getting involved by adopting a rescued dog, volunteering, or donating to the reputable rescue of your choice
• For more info about Jackie’s rescue click: Border Collie Save and Rescue

Grateful thanks to Dr. Jenny Wight, DVM of Texas Foundation for Animal Care for spaying Jackie and giving her heartworm treatment.

Change of Tack

Both literally and figuratively.  For the moment I’ve hung up my saddle and bridle in the tack room, and have pivoted the spotlight to my other calling, canine cognition and positive reinforcement training, and have increased my dedication to learning dog agility. Building on a background working with herding breeds and Border collies in particular, I want to journal my most recent odyssey with a Border collie named Jackie.

Jackie has entered our collective journey as a rehabilitated stray rescue.  Found roaming the rural roads in Mississippi, the awesome folks of Kilgore Aussie Rescue in Louisiana plucked her into their care, and from there she was transported via the army of rescue network into the care of Border Collie Save and Rescue, whose wonderful volunteers are headquartered here in the Fort Worth, Texas area.  In future I’ll say more about the brilliant people at Border Collie Save and Rescue; for now let me just say how truly special the folks are who work in rescue.

In preparation to adopt a third rescue dog, we’ve done all the things: installed a third crate and comfy bed in the bedroom, acquired an appropriate lead and collar complete with ID tag, brought out the exercise pens and puppy gates to control where and how the new pup can access parts of our house, and added an additional water bowl or two.  I prepared several kongs stuffed with tasty things like beef liver or lamb lung, topped with a dollop of peanut butter so she will enjoy crate time and learn to settle.  I ordered long lasting chews (my dogs’ favorites at the moment are the Benebone wishbone and the Petstages deerhorn antler alternative). I laid in an extra supply of small, easy-to-eat-in-one-bite interesting and multi-value training treats including: freeze dried beef liver, lamb lung, Natural Balance mini rewards, Zuke’s mini naturals, and my go-to training favorite lamb loaf.  And (it feels like cheating but dogs love it) lots of Hebrew national hotdogs cut up into tiny medallions.

I filled out the adoption application on the Border Collie Save and Rescue website, and was thrilled when they called a few weeks later to complete the interview and schedule the home inspection.  We were considered approved to adopt! Searching for an excellent candidate for agility, and not too young nor too old, Jackie was at the top of our list and I was excited when her foster mom reached out to meet. 

Following are the chronicles of adopting a high herding drive young Border collie, from ground zero forward into our collective adventure.  Meet Jackie, a three year old female Border collie, and our newest family member!

Jackie while still in the early stages of rescue intake at Border Collie Save and Rescue

Snapshots from March 2020, Third level

Program

From a public post written by Denny Emerson: “For the many, many, many riders who are defeatist pessimists, who torpedo their chances of becoming good riders before they even try, who equate having lots of money with riding ability, who----well, maybe you know some of these riders---

You can buy some nice OTTB for under $7,500. You can train it yourself. You can learn to sit the trot without bouncing. You can learn to have a good eye for a distance. You can read, study, practice, all the things they tell you to do that most people won't actually do--------------------

You can be that old fashioned rider who starts with one building block, one tiny level of ability. Then you add another block, Then you add another block, Then you add another block, Then you add another block---

You watch some other kids, whose parents or sponsors buy them elite horses, go flying past you, but instead of wasting fruitless energy by wailing against the fates, you keep stacking those little building blocks----

And maybe, just maybe, by having the grit to grind it out the hard way, your skills will become greater, and deeper, and more profoundly owned, than the abilities of those who took the easy street.

Or, of course, you can choose to decide how unfair it all is, and spend the same energy complaining when you could have been practicing.

I see this ALL THE TIME. I wrote a book about this topic, how the making of choices either opens or closes doors. Why squander your talent by telling yourself it's no use? Tell yourself that, yes you can---Even if you half think it's a lie. Better a positive lie than a negative lie, don't you think? Choose.”  —Denny Emerson


I pretty much agree with this, with one caveat, that is: be in a good program with a trainer you trust and has who your best interest at heart.  Anna Burtell once told me that most riders (adult amateurs especially) do not need Olympic level trainers, rather we just need an average trainer that we stick with and follow their program day in and day out, year in and year out, and actually DO WHAT THE TRAINER SAYS.

I’ve tested this in the actual lab of life and found it to be true, and have been lucky with three excellent trainers.  Gary Moss in my college years (she was not an Olympic trainer, not even a dressage trainer but a mentor who truly had my best interest at heart and helped me so much figuring out my “formative” years in riding [and life for that matter]).  With help from her advice I campaigned three OTTBs on a ghost of a budget during my college years.

Later in “grownup” life I was fortunate to find Karen Brown who taught me so much in the saddle and out, and gave me many useful tools for making agreeable horses out of sometimes not so willing partners (it is from Karen I learned how to load reluctant horses [at times downright difficult and even dangerous horses] safely and calmly into a trailer, and Karen taught me the one rein stop that has saved my neck more than once on a big, rambunctious horse).  Under Karen Brown I achieved my USDF bronze medal and was able to school much of the FEI on not-expensive horses.

For these past going on seven years I’ve been grateful to work under the analytic eye of Andrea Attard.  She has improved my position and ability to influence the horse through relentlessly staying on top of “position, position, position.”  I’ve learned more about horse and rider safety and keeping horses sound from Andrea than I have ever done in a lifetime before being in her program, including undergrad and advanced degrees in equine science (yes, Andrea has taught me much more in seven years than any universities could possibly teach a student— not a criticism against college, just an understanding that one’s printed degree is only the beginning).  Andrea excels at “riding a horse sound” and I’ve witnessed hands-on how horses in her program become more sound with increased ride-ability.  Within Andrea’s program I’ve earned my USDF silver medal and have gone to regional championships each year I’ve shown with her on three horses, and qualified for national championships on two horses. We’ve achieved champion (HDS fourth level) or reserve (USDF all breeds second level) on multiple horses.  One of Andrea’s specialties is purchasing the correct horse that will be a good counterpart for a specific rider, and I’ve learned valuable lessons about suitability of the match while staying within budget (a seemingly impossible task that Andrea has miraculously pulled off time and again) while purchasing two horses under her guidance.

The point is: develop a relationship with a good trainer, stick with their program and do what the trainer tells you, practice, practice, practice (as Denny says above), and I’m living proof that even “just about anyone” can achieve success!

Lyndon Rife clinic February 9-10 2020

To address rideability, keep the horse in shoulder in position while being able to counter flex in the opposite direction of the bend.  An example exercise: ride right lead canter on the rail staying in shoulder in right position, half pass right onto the inside track then counter flex him left at the poll, then back to right flexion, all while staying in right shoulder in positioning.  Also you can check in on this on a circle, while circling right maintain right bend and see if you can counter flex left while keeping the right bend and right shoulder in positioning, so turning right but flexion left, then back to turning right and flexion right.  

An exercise to school flying changes: canter up the long side (let's say in right lead canter); from the corner half pass right toward the quarterline, then turn it in to leg yield with a slight flexion left to the centerline, then straight on the centerline with a straight flying change on the centerline then track left.  With Jazzy, ride his outside hind by vibrating your outside leg back and keep your inside leg almost off of him while really riding his outside in the canter.  

An exercise to school pirouettes: start on straight lines in canter, then half pass in toward the centerline, after a couple lines of half passing in, come onto a circle at the end of the arena and then as you bring the circle in add a feel of half pass while continuing to bring the shoulders around the circle and then canter back out on the circle, then bring the circle in with half pass around the circle again and then back out onto the larger circle.  

When half passing, have a feel of shoulder in to begin, then start the half pass with your weight aid so that Jazzy is not just falling into your inside leg but that you have the correct alignment to begin.  Positon Jazzy so that your outside knee is pointing toward the letter to which you are riding.  

In the medium (and extended) trot, think of first creating taller, rounder steps with Jazzy's knees stepping higher and rounder so that his shoulders stay up in front (rather than his shoulder getting a bit flat).  Then when you turn onto the diagonal line, be sure to maintain straightness (Jazzy can fall into your right leg so even think about the feel of leg yielding him away from your right leg).  Then put your lower leg on and grow the strides longer but keeping him higher and rounder, bringing the hindlegs with you.  Be sure to look up and ride from letter to letter on the long diagonal.  

Gratuitous Dog Photos

Because, why not?

We love living in the city, and Buffalo Bayou Park is the best dog-friendly urban wilderness for roaming, sniffing, and seeing the sights.  Home of the Wortham fountain, the Waugh bat colony, the canoe trail and more.  Rosco's favorite is eating breakfast sandwiches on the patio at The Dunlavy.

Here is downtown Houston from our street with Rosco the Cocker spaniel and Gunner the Border collie.  Gunner is an AKC Canine Good Citizen and holds an AKC Trick Dog Novice title as well.  Rosco, at twelve years old, is ruler of all he surveys.

There's always someone interesting in the park, and today we met Alisa, who loves saying hi to the pups.  Alisa writes the naturalist blog for the Buffalo Bayou Park, an awesome blog about a variety of naturalist topics, not least of which is the multitude of animals in the park.  Among other animals, Alisa said she loves Border collies and especially Corgis!

Some principles to remember

Upon reflection of Jazzy's and my ongoing dressage training this past year, the following principles continued to emerge from our training with Andrea Attard, Conrad Schumacher, and Lyndon Rife, and are worth reviewing:

This is how to increase reliability: if the horse does something you don't like, just keep going, riding correctly, and make an improvement a little later in motion.  Always ride with the outside leg, so that the connexion will be correct.  Use the rider's outside leg to hold the horse round in the connexion; have the outside leg in a guarding position.  It is very important that when you are riding the inside leg to the outside rein, you are also riding the outside leg which is guarding, as well as you can say a guarding outside rein.  The principle is you bring the horse to the outside, not that you're holding the outside tight, rather bring the horse to the outside rein in a soft way.  And when you have brought the horse to the outside, then the neck gets stable and gets soft and stays round.  

Be very fussy about riding very accurate geometry, such as in circles.  Understand the arena and know exactly where each size circle should be ridden according to the letters and your position in the arena.  

Timing is everything.  Strong position is everything.  Correct contact and connexion is everything.  

If you get a not-perfect walk to canter transition, freshen the canter and make it better first, then go back and improve the walk to canter transition.  Otherwise if you immediately go back to walk, the horse learns that he was still a bit slow to the leg in the transition; instead make the canter better first, then go back to the transition.  

The idea of training movements for a particular level is not worth much without the overarching idea of developing the horse correctly right now and to build on for the future.  The idea of developing the horse by teaching him to carry and be in self-carriage is of utmost importance.  Always examine and challenge the straightness, the bending, the connexion, and the lightness of the aids.  In a moment of crisis, first establish that the horse is carrying itself (you are not holding it up nor pulling it down on the forehand with the reins), then establish that the horse is in alignment (the horse is not falling over the outside shoulder with neck in, but rather the horse is established into a good outside rein connexion and the rider's inside [and outside] leg is being used to keep the ribcage out in correct bend), and then make the contact good by suppling the horse within this already established correct balance and alignment.  Developing the horse for the future by teaching it to move correctly in the way of a dressage horse is the most difficult thing, but the most important thing.

It's been a good year for learning, and I'm grateful to all my teachers including this four-legged one:

Lyndon Rife Clinic October 26-27, 2019

Improving rideability was the theme that developed over the weekend.  Remember to keep your hands more side by side, and keep the horse "on your outside elbow" with your wrist closing your hand on the outside rein, and you can lift your inside hand to flex him them your hands are side by side again.  An exercise to help steady your hands is to bridge the reins, keeping your hands side by side and quiet, and occasionally the inside hand up the crest.

Before asking for the alignment in lateral exercises, be sure that the horse is good in the ribcage first by riding him straight, then getting the inside flexion while he is still straight and then adding the alignment last, keeping his shoulder from falling in and keeping his ribcage in a good position from your inside leg.  Be able to separate it, that you can get flexion without aligning him right away, which makes him better in the ribcage. For Jazzy, ride him less low, with his ears up at the end of his long neck.  It is more important to get the flexion without him getting low in the neck.  Sometimes you can ride him rounder, deeper as an exercise but I need to work on the lateral suppleness so he doesn't think everything to do with the bit has to do with only being deeper.  As he warms up, Jazzy gets cruising so use that to keep him more uphill, otherwise he'll be really forward but still a little on the forehand, so be sure that all the time you're working to get him off the forehand more and more.  One way of doing this is to stay taller in your position, squeeze the outside rein and make him wait on you a bit.

If you get a not-perfect walk to canter transition, freshen the canter and make it better first, then go back and improve the walk to canter transition.  For canter to walk, step down into a deep inside leg, freshen the canter, then make the canter shorter, shorter, shorter, walk.  For walk to canter: keep your inside leg deep, take it off a couple times and bump bump down a little to wake him up, squeeze on the outside rein and keep the outside rein in the transition, take your outside leg off, bring it back and then ask for the canter with your inside heel down (bring your outside leg back without it being on him and then your inside leg).  If you slide your outside leg back, then you push the haunches in.  Remember he has to be prompt and pay attention to your leg.

An exercise to improve rideability for the canter: ride half pass toward the centerline and then change the flexion, stay cantering on the same line then change the flexion back to the true lead then turn in that direction without doing a change.  So half pass from the longside toward the centerline, keeping his shoulders on the line, then counter flex him but keep his shoulders in the same positioning then flex him back to the true canter lead flexion then track in the direction of the canter lead.  So you can play around with the flexion without doing the change.  So that you can control the shoulders and that you can flex him without him thinking about doing the change.  It helps to half pass directly out of the corner because you can really bend him and put his haunches to the inside and make the point that his ears and his shoulders lead slightly because you already have control of the haunches.  On the short side, get the haunches more to the inside so that you know they'll be available when you start the half pass.  You need to be able to keep the haunches caught up (for Jazzy, especially the right huanches when cantering on the left lead).  If he gets too strong and won't let you half pass, walk and do the half pass at the walk, almost halting and really bringing the haunches with the half pass, then canter and do the half pass in canter.  Remember to keep the outside rein, outside leg control, keeping him on your outside elbow.

Note: when you counter-flex him (let's say to the right while cantering on the left lead) don't turn him right, he has to keep turning left and you flex him right, using both reins.  The new outside rein (the counterflexion rein) yields him over and the left rein keeps him and is supported by your deep, weighted inside leg keeping him really cantering on the left lead.  When cantering on the right lead, keep his shoulders right but be able to flex him left.  Keep him in shoulder fore right, and your left rein can flex him left but the right rein has to lead him right.  Looking left, but turning right, even on a straight line.  On a circle, the line in the middle of his chest stays on the circle, and you can flex his poll right or left your choice, but his shoulders and chest stay turning on the circle in shoulder fore.